W123-TECH: Tailgate - Hatch - strut support replacement

[Maxbumpo]

Ok, anyone who's BTDT, what is the secret tool? :confused: It looks like a #40 Torx bit, but it has 12 points instead of 6. This is for my '85 300TD.

[blkchambers]

I think Snap-On sells 12 point sockets of this type. I bought a 12MM one for head bolts on a Volvo years ago.

[j-warner]

The ones on my 81 were internal like an allen but with the 12 points. The hex allen wrench worked fine in the 12 point hole.
Joe

[lkchris]

Twelve-point socket head screws are called triple square or XZN.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/tool...ll&Group_ID=282

[Sysco Kid]

When I purchased "Grease Lightning" this past summer I knew there would be trouble. Only on the hottest Boston summer days would the rear door remain
in the open position. The pistons were barely holding it up. Now that it's
winter it drops down like a ton of bricks. I've been looking for spare parts at
the junkyards and on EBAY to no success.
How hard is this repair to do myself??? My mechanic says most of the cost is in the time to remove the hatch itself. I'd love to see a video of this repair done.
There are several videos on EBAY but none on this subject.

1) Does anyone have some working pistons for me to purchase ?

2) Can someone share their experiences with this situation?

Happy New Year to all

Michael

1984 300tdt- now with 85k origional miles

[Robby Ackerman]

This is one of those repairs where you don't want used parts. If you find used pistons they may be 20 to 30 years old and you'll soon experience a similar problem with them. A new pair is under $100. This isn't a technically difficult job, nor does it require any special experience. You do need the instructions from the manual or CD so you don't spend your time needlessly.

[4point5]

I agree with Robby- used parts for the hatch will be exactly like the ones on your car, if not worse. A friend and I, each with 123 wagons, did this job together. The struts/shocks are little miniature Bilstein shock-absorber looking things. The hatch does not need to come off. The hardest part is getting under the headliner inside, and removing the star bolts to loosen the shocks. The design is great, in that the struts are hidden inside (as opposed to outside hinges like an old Volvo) but they are rather a pain to swap out.

After I replaced mine, I had the opposite problem- until the new struts relaxed a bit (took about a year)- if not help tightly, the hatch would fly open, and more than once nearly took my front teeth out!

JAS

[Grey Ghost]

hear, hear

[Maxbumpo]

I just finished this repair on my wagon. Not bad at all, will take a few hours. There is a special tool for the inner bolt for each strut, I found it available online for $5 plus shipping, I'll see if I can remember where. It is an 8mm triple-square or 12pt tool.
....

Here it is: http://all-tool.com/BY_MASTER_CATAGORY/Chrome_Sockets_and_Drive_Tools/Bit_Sockets_Hex-Torx-Plug/Bit_Sockets_Hex-Torx-Plug/bit_sockets_hex-torx-plug_1.htm


I'll second the vote for only using new struts.

[Sysco Kid]

What a great forum. In just a few hours I have been sent in the right
direction. Thanks to you all. I will purchase new pistons and will get the 8mm
wrench. Any other thoughts or ideas while I wait for parts ,please let me know

Michael :)

[Maxbumpo]

The only real trick to getting off the large speaker cover, at the back of the roof which goes all the way across, is to slide it (either forward or back, don't remember which now) once you've gotten all the screws out that hold it, and removed the light.

Once that cover is off, you'll have access to the two screws that accept the 8mm triple-square bit.

When removing the struts, the outer end is pinned to the hatch. Pull off retaining clip, push out pin, the lift the hatch as high as possible to get enough room to move the strut to the inside of the hatch arm.

During installation, I used a needle-nose vice grips, clamped to the outer end of the strut, to manuever the inside end of the strut into position so that I could get the screw back in. You have to get your eyeball and a light into that hole at the same time to see what's going on, in order to line it all up for the screw to go back in.

[Sysco Kid]

Meade
If only you made a video of this accomplishment.
When are you coming to Boston? I make a mean
clam chowder. I will be waiting for you along with
my flashlight ;)

[Maxbumpo]

Sysco,

Thanks for the invite! May take a couple years or longer for me to get to Boston. My wife has a set of relatives that live up there, so maybe someday.

Are you planning a trip to Charleston?

I'm not interested in video, but I've been toying with the idea of writing a book on 123 repair, in the vein of "How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive - a manual of step by step procedures for the complete idiot" I'd need to get Doktor Booth to sign on as an editor, though.

[Sysco Kid]

Can someone confirm the correct MB part # for the "pistons" ?
Do I need any other parts? :)

[Maxbumpo]

Should be 123 980 00 64, currently ~$54 at

http:\\buymbparts.com

[Sysco Kid]

great.. thank you :)

[godowning]

check out this ebay auction

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8028256217&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3AFSEL%3AUS%3A1

[Sysco Kid]

Greg
Thanks for the heads up.
Did you do this repair yourself?
I'll put the bid in after I post this.

Regards
Michael :D

[godowning]

Hi Michael,

I have not had to do the repair yet, but with 3 wagons it's only a matter of time.

I have purchased other items from Mercedessource and have always been happy with their stuff.

Hope the repair goes well.

[Sysco Kid]

I will post some pix of "Grease Lightning" before, during and after
the repair.

Enjoy The Weekend
Go Patriots!!!

Michael
1984 300 tdt :)

[Sysco Kid]

Tom Brady !!

[Sysco Kid]

It only took 1 hour and fifteen minutes and the hatch slowly rises just great.
I didn't have the long needle- nose pliers so I got the help of my 10 year old
son to help out. I must say that it feels great to DIY. :)

[j-warner]

This is really an easy job. You need a prop cut to length to keep the tension off the struts. You do not need a special tool. The 12 point bolt accepts a six point 8 mm allen wrench with no problem. We have been using 12 point sockets on six sided nuts for years. www.autohausaz.com has the struts part number 123980064 $23.40 each. The job takes about thirty minutes after you have done a couple.
Joe

[batwing54s]

I found these rear hatch pistons on e bay and paid $65 for the pair. They were original MB parts. Technically I am a klutz so I paid a local mechanic to change them for me. I paid him $100. It was the best $165 I ever spent. The hatch opens with gusto now, so stand back after releasing the latch! Not having to worry about brain damage when loading or unloading is a relief.

[Sysco Kid]

I aggree, what a relief not having a broomstick kicking around the
back. My trunk space just seems bigger now that it rises on its own

Regards

Michael :)

[Buddy2003]

Hi,

Trying to replace the tailgate struts to stop the **** thing from falling on my head.

At the rear, the strut is held on by a large diameter, conical headed, alloy torx head bolt (which ******* ever designed these?!). Needless to say, inspite of spraying lots of WD-40 beforehand, I manged to partially strip the head of the bolt..................does anyone have any tips for how to remove the **** thing?

Thanks,

Quentin

[Maxbumpo]

Quentin,

Assuming you have a 123 wagon, the bolt in question is a 8mm triple-square (if I recall correctly), not a torx. You need to get the proper tool and then life is MUCH easier. :)

See this thread:

http://mbca.cartama.net/showthread.php?t=10030&highlight=wagon+Hatch+strut+tool

[Sysco Kid]

I did this repair a few months ago on my wagon.
I'm sure I won't need it for another 22 years. :)

[Buddy2003]

aahhhhh.......okay, I have NEVER heard of a triple-square before! Just assumed that it was a torx.

Just ordered a set of 4 triple square sockets.......just hoping that I didn't strip the bolt too badly.......you learn something new every day......thanks for the info!