87 300 sdl conversion

[kipper]

I compleated my conversion to wvo the other day , and shes running great , the cost of all the parts needed was around $ 450 and about 12 hours of my labor nd a few trips to the Home depot and Pep Boys. :D

[Maxbumpo]

Single tank or dual tank?

[Don350SDL]

Photos and details, if you please.

[kipper]

Its a duel tank with a Hot fox tank heater. I used aluminum 3/8 fuel line for better heat transfer, a Polack valve for swicthing between tanks . For a wvo tank I bought a 10 gallon drum from a company called New Pig and wrapped it with fiberglass insulation to help keep it warm. I used a diesel fuel filter and housing that I ordered from Summit Racing and placed an aluminum coil around the filter that I found on Ebay. I drove it for about 50 miles today and maintained a good 165 degrees cooking oil temp prior to the injection pump.
The wvo tank does take up alot of room in the trunk, but around here with diesel at just under $3.00 a gallon I can live with a smaller trunk. I will post some pictures in a few days.

[Maxbumpo]

Do you mean 165 deg F or C? My understanding is the hotter the better. I think I read somewhere that about 200 C provides correct viscosity if using original injectors.

[kipper]

For the cooking oil to have the same viscosity of diesel, it must reach a tempiture of 160 f my temps are at 165 f

[Lava]

This is a great post and anyone who can, should check it out!
Where did you get your tech. info? It sounds very simple.
Thanks for the great info!
Lava in Michigan

[kipper]

The book "From Fryer to Fuel tank " was a big help, and a few web forums are a help . As of now my 300 sdl has logged about 650 miles on used oil so Im able to save a few pennies by not buying diesel. To convert it took a few days , but I was not out to set any record getting it done.

[ems_pilot]

Hi, I converted our 1985 300D Turbo about 3 years ago. It has been teriffic and with diesel over $3 again...:o One problem I have, probably due to the partially hydrogenated oil I use (I know, hydrogenated = not good), is that I change my injectors at about 15,000 miles due to coking. I am sure this occurs from the oil I am burning but I have an unlimited supply and it is almost new, clear and easily filterable while pumping. Does anyone have any idea as to an additive I might add to slow down the coking? I though perhaps a little diesel injector cleaner in each tankful (17 gallon dual tank). Also any suggestions as to what to use to clean the removed injectors?

I have run about 30,000 miles so far and keep 3 / 55 gallon drums of oil on hand. It is a fun car to chat with folks about.

Thanks,

Steve

[kipper]

Hi Steve , When you have the injectors out take them to a shop and check the spray pattern, I know bio diesel is a great solvent and will remove the coking, as for the cause, I would say your oil is not getting hot enough prior to entering the injector pump or your not purging the wvo oil all out and .How hot is you oil temp?Also I use hydrogenated oil and the only problem I have is filtering it due to being thicker.
Hope this is a help , Kipper

[ems_pilot]

Hi Kipper,

I am almost sure the partial hydrogenated component is the culprit. The dried oil on surfaces has a rubbery / plastic feel to it rather than an oily film. Remember this is not bio-diesel but waste soy oil. I don't switch over to wvo until my temps are over 70 (180F). I don't mind changing the injectors every so many miles but knowing that running on diesel I would not have to do so for many many thousands of miles makes me search for a solution.

Steve

[Maxbumpo]

Here's a post originally by Chasmodo:

One important item that could eliminate much of the guesswork and confusion surrounding this topic is proper preparation.

It's a labor of love thing that most dedicated owners could perform. I posted this today on another forum. Since I'm unfamiliar with forum educate I wont link but will provide my two cents below

I just had a local Bosch authorized shop here in Baltimore test and balance 20 of my spares and was very pleased. They were the closest of four facilities in the area with a test bench, shims, and experience. I'll get around to fabricating a pop tester one of these days but at 12 bucks a pop locally with a two day turn around, it was time saved and money well spent. This was the last of a multi-stage tuning process and car purrs like a cat. FINALLY no more nails, taps, and tinkles.

Their tech originally said most injectors test bad and need replacement but not in my case (only 1 in 10 bad - all were original w 140 to 220K miles).

HERE'S THE TRICK: This is where time is very well spent since few shops will perform these steps.

Disassemble all injectors and keep the individual pieces separate. Use care when storing or transferring units or nozzles (pintles are delicate)

Remove carbon on all pintle tips and mating lower nozzle seat orifices using brass brush and gum cutter. Don't waste time on the next steps until you examine and compare all pintles with a strong magnifying glass. Look for telltale ridge on taper or buggered tip from manhandling under strong light or better yet, sunlight. 5 cylinder (early series) injectors also have tiny holes which should pass light or injected gum cutter. Discard any nozzles with a noticeable ridge. I was lucky to find only one out of twenty which attests to the incredible quality of original manufacturing.

Remove signs of brown varnish residue from both the inner bore and upper seat of nozzle using suitable cleaning brushes and solvent.

Using a stiff steel plumbers brush, ream the inner bore of the lower nozzle body to remove carbon. A bad injector will have loads of carbon in this area. Using a steel wire toothbrush remove loose rust from the exterior surfaces (this is good insurance since a speck of rust can easily ruin an injector during service).

Keeping parts separate (I used baggies with small holes) immerse in Zep carburetor and parts cleaner for 2 hours. Rinse parts in scalding hot water and dry immediately.

NOTE: This preferred solution is a strong chemical, expensive, and tough to find (Zep is an independent supplier to the trade) but works like no other. It will lift and emulsify all gums and carbon compounds leaving a water soluble coating. It is dark brown and has a strong, sweet, and unmistakable medical smell. This is an invaluable and very special product used for special occasions (carbs, injectors, bare auto transmission parts, pistons, etc.)

Reassemble injectors in a clean, lint free (no cloth or paper products) area using WD40. At this stage the pintle should drop in its bore like a pearl dropped in glycerin.

Cap the tops and bottoms of the injectors and send them out for balancing.
The pop shop will be tickled pink since all that's likely to be needed are proper shims.

[Maxbumpo]

Bosch also makes a kit for cleaning injectors, you can find them on Ebay for about $50.