non-start after fuel filter change

[bill240dmb]

1983 240 D (123.123)

Did the oil & filters, then the fuel filters this weekend.

Now car won't start...ran for 30 seconds after initial start up, now won't run. Primed filters with manual pump, bled secondary filter. What gives? Even took off new filters and replaced with old to see it there was a defect...same non-start problem, just cranks over and over, no fire. Glow plugs were installed in Oct.

Ran OK until I did these simple tasks. Help!

[AnthroProfessor]

This always happens to me when I change the fuel filters. Its not uncommon.

There are a few things you can do. Priming the pump is a must. Then check the big bolt on top of the main fuel filter....loosen it a little and then prime the pump on the injector. Make sure some diesel is coming out from that big bolt area. Close tightly. You released the air in the system and this should work. Start the car.

If no go, then loosen the pipes that go into the injector nozzles on the engine. The portion just above the nozzles. Just a quarter turn with a wrench is enough and prime the pump. Do this to each cylinder to ensure fuel is traveling to that spot. Tighten the pipes. Then start the car.

I would wear gloves while doing this. Then take the gloves off when you are touching the interior of the car. Diesel fuel is not kind to interiors or paint surface, so beware and pretend you are a surgeon.

[Marshall Welch]

The same thing happened with my car last Summer, when I changed both fuel filters at the same time. I bled the air from the main filter using the hand pump, then tightened down the main filter bolt, as I had done previously, and the pre-filter was pretty much filled up with fuel. I cranked and cranked the engine- even took the battery off and recharged it for a few hours because it was starting to drain. The car eventually started up after some additional cranking using the charged up battery.

I wrote a reminder in my service records- NOT to change both filters at the same time. I had previously only changed one filter at a time, and the problem hadn't been nearly this bad. Maybe I hadn't properly bled the air out of the system and primed the main filter sufficiently, I don't know for sure. But next time, I think I will only change one filter at a time.

[hondaman7]

I have changed the fuel filters many times on my 83 300d and have found that the technique below works wonders.

Follow these steps for a "bleed-free" fuel filter change.
Let me know if this method helps you.

Primary filter(plastic in-line filter)
Secondary filter (metal canister filter)
Have fuel level relatively high (at least 3/4 tank)

1. Losen the two clamps on the fuel lines holding the primary filter.
2. Have your new primary filter ready and within reach.
3. Remove the primary filter and plug the fuel supply line with your finger.
4. Hook up the supply line to appropriate end of new primary filter
5. Gravity will quickly fill it with diesel if the fuel level is high enough in the tank.
6. Allow it to fill as much as possible (there's always a tiny bit of air at the top)
7. When filled attach other end to the short hose from the fuel pump.
8. Secure both metal clamps.
9. Wipe up spilled diesel (shouldn't be too much...it takes practice to spill nothing)

Now on the the secondary filter.

10. Fill new filter with diesel as full as you can get.
11. Lubricate o-ring on new filter with diesel.
11. Have new filter filled with fuel within reach.
12. Losen the bolt on top of the filter housing and remove the old filter.
13. Install the new filter and tighten (remember these look like spin-on filters but they are not. The bolt on the housing is the only thing that needs to turn.
14. Fire up your old diesel (make sure to prewarm fully even if it's hot outside)

I hope this helps someone in the future.

Take care!
Adam

[Maxbumpo]

If no go, then loosen the pipes that go into the injector nozzles on the engine. The portion just above the nozzles. Just a quarter turn with a wrench is enough and prime the pump. Do this to each cylinder to ensure fuel is traveling to that spot. Tighten the pipes.

Wrong - the priming pump does not push fuel out the injection lines to the injectors. Only a turning engine can push fuel to the injectors. The priming pump simply primes the injection pump and its circuit to the main fuel filter.

[Boneheaddoctor]

Something that hasn't been asked or answered. Is this car sitting on level ground during all of this?

If it is on a hill, you have the IP air locked. you have to crack the delivery valve open on the uphill end of the IP. Then pump the primer until fuel comes out. At that point tighten the delivery valve back down being careful not to tighten it too much. (ask me how I know that) Now you are ready to try again. Don't crank for more than 45 seconds at a time waiting a minute or two between tries so you don't overheat the starter. If this doesn't get results by the third or 4th try, then loosen the injector line at the injector one at a time until you see fuel come out when you crank it over. Then tighten all of them up.

You car should be running before you get to this point.