What car polish to use?

[dolebludger]

I had thought that Zymol was about as good as it got. Then I saw an ad for Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss. I could not find anybody who had used it, so I took a chance and bought some. My MB had been freshly waxed with Zymol. I tried the new "Ultra Gloss" and felt that it did give more of a shine. I tried it also on my red Honda S2000 and on my dark green Ford pick up. It was good on them as well. But the biggest difference I could see was on the burgandy MB.

Does anybody else think "Ultra Gloss" is about state of the art? If not, what would you suggest?

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
Considerring the age of your Toy; I would never used anything that has an abrasive blended with the silicons or carnabo waxes.
I have a '87 300dt; color Smoke Silver Metallic clear coat.
It has never been cleaned with anything except "body clay" and plenty of water during the rubbing.
I then seal it with just wax. preferrabley carnaba.
I had it wet sanded and given two base coats and three clear coats over the original paint.
I had this done in year 2000 and it is like a mirror.
It has never been damaged except buy road stones and parking lot dings.
Back to the clay.
You will not have those swirl marks that come from cleaners that prevents you from having that deep mirror finish and the clay is easier to use.
Happy Trail Beep Beep from The Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[mark cummins]

Originally posted by dolebludger
I had thought that Zymol was about as good as it got. Then I saw an ad for Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss. I could not find anybody who had used it, so I took a chance and bought some. My MB had been freshly waxed with Zymol. I tried the new "Ultra Gloss" and felt that it did give more of a shine. I tried it also on my red Honda S2000 and on my dark green Ford pick up. It was good on them as well. But the biggest difference I could see was on the burgandy MB.

Does anybody else think "Ultra Gloss" is about state of the art? If not, what would you suggest?

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

For the Dark Finish I Use Blackfire..Its UNREAL!!!
I Was Using Zaino until I found the Blackfire...It Put Moose Wax in SECOND Place..
I would start with the Clay bar as the above post requested..Then apply the cleaner (IF) needed..
Then a polish Like Blackfire... Moose wax / Zaino..Or Meguiars New NXT
I have Tried Most ALL Products out there and the Blackfire is The Best So Far...

Also it goes on EASY..NO Streaking..and Wont leave the wax build up on the rubber...and It Fills the swirls ...I Also Use the PC buffer that WONT Burn the finish..No matter what... Use a different pad for the polish and another one for the wax..Takes a LOT less time to do the job..and the results are Unreal..

[dolebludger]

I am with you 100% about the non-use of abrasives and the use of clay bar for cleaning. We keep all our cars garaged. And, they aren't left out for long ever, as we are both retired. So I don't want to use an abrasive product (nor is there any need) on our six year old truck.

It was my understanding, however that Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss was non abrasive, containing only chemical cleaners. I will verify this with the company, and report back.

After waxing with this stuff, we took a trip from Ok City to Durango CO and back, and (thanks to some rainstorms as we got near home) the car looks almost clean. No rock pocks, though plenty of rocks.

But if this product is abrasive, I will discontinue, and report here on that fact.

Thanks,
Richard:confused:

[dolebludger]

Well, I called Turtle Wax, and was told Ultra Gloss contains a small amount of fine abrasive. But I was also told thal all other waxes and polishes do to. Looking about in my garage, I read the Zymol label and discovered it contains almond meal as an abrasive.

Do you know of any totally non-abrasive wax or polish I could use?

Thanks,
Richard:confused:

[mark cummins]

This May Help

COMPOUNDS, POLISHES AND GLAZES SORTED BY CUTTING ABILITY

10 – MOST AGGRESSIVE - COMPOUNDS
3M SUPER DUTY RUBBING COMPOND HEAVY CUT 39004
MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL DIAMOND CUT COMPOUND 2.0 VERY HEAVY CUT #85

8
MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL COMPUND POWER CLEANER HEAVY CUT #84
3M PERFECT-IT III EXTRA CUT RUBBING COMPOUND 05936
MEGUAIR’S MIRROR GLAZE HEAVY CUT CLEANER #4

7
3M IMPERIAL MICRO FINISHING COMPOUND MEDIUM CUT 39001
MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE MEDIUM-CUT CLEANER #1
3M PERFECT-IT III RUBBING COMPOUND 05933

6
MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL DUAL ACTION CLEANER POLISH MEDIUM CUT #83

5
3M PERFECT-IT II RUBBING COMPOUND FINE CUT 39002
MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE FINE-CUT CLEANER #2
3M ONE STEP CLEANER WAX, MEDIUM OXIDATION REMOVER 39066
MENZERNA INTENSIVE POLISH
3M PERFECT-IT SWIRL MARK REMOVER DARK CARS 39009
3M PERFECT-IT SWIRL MARK REMOVER LIGHT CARS 39109
MEGUIAR’S MEDALLION PAINT CLEANER #97
MEGUIAR’S SCRATCH-X #108

4 - POLISHES
MEGUIAR’S BODY SCRUB A10
MEGUIAR’S DEEP CRYSTAL PAINT CLEANER #30
MEGUIER’S QUICK DETAILER #66
MEGUIER’S SPEED GLAZE #80
BLACK FIRE DEEP GLOSS POLISH

3
MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL SWIRL FREE POLISH LIGHT CUT #82
MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE SWIRL REMOVER #9
3M FINESSE-IT II MACHINE POLISH 39003
3M FINESSE-IT II FINISHING MATERIAL 05928
MENZERNA FINAL POLISH

2 - GLAZES
MEGUIAR’S BODY SHOP PROFESSIONAL HAND POLISH VERY LIGHT CUT #81
MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE MACHINE GLAZE #3
3M PERFECT-IT III TRIZACT MACHINE GLAZE 05930
3M PERFECT-IT III MACHINE GLAZE 05937
3M IMPERIAL MACHINE GLAZE 05991
3M ONE STEP CLEANER WAX, LIGHT OXIDATION REMOVER 39006

1
MEGUIAR’S MIRROR GLAZE SHOW CAR GLAZE #7
3M PERFECT-IT III FINISHING GLAZE 05941
3M IMPERIAL HAND GLAZE 39007
BLACKFIRE ALL FINISH PAINT PROTECTION


Maybe some simple definitions:

Polish - a light abrasive used to remove surface imperfections

Glaze - an oil based product used to fill surface imperfections and create gloss

Wax - a product to protect the paint surface

Most High End WAXES dont have any Cleaner in them..

__________________

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
For many many years I have used Meguiars "High-Tech Yellow Wax No. 26" liquid.
When much younger and a student at GMI, I was working a session with Buick Motor Cars(1954) and Buick had this stuff with their part number.
I got it free gratis so that helped.
Believe it or not it came in a glass bottle.
It is offerred now as a paste, same stuff with no abrasive.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the shiny Spiderman on the Gulf coast, Don:p

[dolebludger]

mark cummins:

Thanks for the comprehensive briefing. I like what you have to say about Blackfire, but have never seen it in a car parts shop or catalog. Where can I get some? I'd like to try it as my cars really don't need what you define as cleaners or polishes (even on my older truck) --- especially if they gradually degrade the clearcoat.

D.L Swinford:

Is it still called McGuires High tech yellow wax No. 26? I'd like to try some of that as well.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[mark cummins]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by dolebludger
[B]mark cummins:

Thanks for the comprehensive briefing. I like what you have to say about Blackfire, but have never seen it in a car parts shop or catalog. Where can I get some? I'd like to try it as my cars really don't need what you define as cleaners or polishes (even on my older truck) --- especially if they gradually degrade the clearcoat.

Try This...http://www.properautocare.com/blackfireusa.html

Note..MOST products that work..Are NOT sold in Auto part stores
I Have tried Most all products on the market..and so far the best
for me is BLACKFIRE on my Black 210wagon and the Wifes 203

Also Please pick up some Micro fibers to wipe the car with...
And Some Final Detail from Meguiars..Spray ..It Works!

[Mike Pritzl]

Thought I'd join the disussion regarding car waxes. I've been a user of Meguiars Gold Class Liquid for a long time and recently tried their new NXT Tech Wax. We have a dark blue C320, a dark green SAAB 900 and a red Miata. The Tech Wax put a noticably brighter and deeper shine on all the cars vs. the Gold Class Liquid. I'm very satisfied!
Mike.

[dolebludger]

Mike:

Do you know if the NXT Tech Wax contains any abrasives?

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[Tom Hanson]

Turtle Wax ?? You might as well use battery acid. Same results, just alot quicker. Try the products mentioned my Mark, and then contact Granitize Products in Soth Gate, CA (562 area code). Order a can of "Finish Wax". Pure carnuba, to be used on a well-prepared clean surface. Slickest wax you'll ever find.

[dolebludger]

Tom:

Dost thou jest? Seriously, I plan to discontinue use of the Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss because I don't want ANY abrasives in what I use. But "this is not your father's Turtle Wax." It is a brand new product advertised in the car mags as giving the highest shine possible. And it does give a very high shine. Better than Lexol, and better than some straight wax product I have. And way out of the league with any other Turtle Wax product.

I hope some other folks chime in here with further recommendations and comments.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
Here at my desk is one each, a can and a bottle of the magic fluid number 26.
Try it and you'll can the others.
Use the liquid and you'll sware by it, love at first smear.
Not to be so opinionate but over the years I've tried most of the high priced spreads.
All of the polishes can only give you gloss as good as the surface it's applied to.
Distalants(kerosene) are good examples as that is used in many waxes as the carrier.
Clean the surface using BODY CLAY with plenty water until there is no signs of surface blems;then apply the liquid or any type WITHOUT ABRASIVES that's on sale.(save your bucks).
The price of a product does not asure you of the best performance, only snob appeal during garage talk.
The plain stuff shines as good as the fancy shamncy stuff and lasts as long.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the trouble making Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[dolebludger]

Thanks D.L.

I read from your answer that "ole No. 26 has no abrasives. As a side light, our local club tech recommends first washing, then using a cleaner, then using a polish, then using a wax. Aside from the six hours this takes to do a car, I'm wondering if anybody has any comments on this method. It seems to me that cleaners and polishes he was talking about contain a lot more abrasives than "one step" stuff like Ultra Gloss, and therefore this procedure is a step in the WRONG direction!?

Thanks,
Richard

[Mike Pritzl]

Dear Dolebludger:

I'm not sure if there are or aren't abrasives in this new product. I checked the bottle and it doesn't list anything one way or another. Maybe someone else has contacted Meguiars for info?

Mike.

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Dole;
I'm sure the group means well for they must have never seen paint glissen.
Let's streamliner thier method.
First:
Wash the rascal using car wash not dish washing soap. Don't use the car wash that is suppose to wax at the same time.
I use two wash mits; 1 for the body washing it first the 2nd for wheels and tires.Sometimes I'l brush the wheels.
I've used Clean Wheel Disks for over 15 years so I have minimum brake dust.
Again I am different when it comes to drying the body; I use cotton bath towels even if they have some polyester in them.
Second:
If the paint is oxidized where it needs cleaning; BODY CLAY only. No polishes or CLEANERS.
Last :
After the claying comes the easy job.
Use magic elexir No. 26 and buff with bath towels and your finished.
Step back and smile.
They used to call me El Cheapo on the form years ago before Spiderman was given me.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from whatever The Spidermanon the Gulf Coast, Don, :p

[dolebludger]

D.L.:

Your wash and wax procedure is much like mine, except that I use a synthetic chamois beofre the old bath towels to dry.

The reason I am still "looking around" beyond a good, pure carnauba wax is this. Carnauba has a melting point below 180 degrees. In our hot Okahoma summers, the "skin temperature" of a car parked in the sun for just time enough to see a movie deteriorates the carnauba. Your N0. 26 sounds good for my fall and winter wash and wax jobs, but not so good for the summer for this reason.

But finding something with polymers, acrylics, etc. to raise the melting point always seems to get me into the abrasive question.

To change the subject a bit, has anyone had any experience with Eagle One Nano Wax?

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[Mike Pritzl]

Dear Dolebludger:

I contacted Meguiars regarding abrasives in their NXT Tech Wax product and according to Paul Ruiz at Meguiars, the product contains no abrasives!
I would recommend the product to anyone, it applies easily, comes off much easier than any other liquid wax I've ever used, leaves no white residue, and provides a wonderful deep, glossy finish.

Mike.

[dolebludger]

Thanks, Mike, for your research. My S2000 is up for a summer wax job, and I'm hesitant to use pure wax, as the heat and sun here might well melt it all off! So, I will try NXT on it and see how it turns out. I like the part about it leaving no white residue on black seals and trim pieces, which Ultra Gloss will do and must be cleaned off.

I think one thing we all agree upon on this thread is that REPEATED use of wax or polish containing any abrasive content on clear coat paint is just no good, even if the product is labeled "clear coat safe" (the question is, for how many applications?) I may also try out Tom Hanson's recommended "Blackfire" and D.L.'s recommended No. 26 for fall and winter detailing.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[dolebludger]

Mike:

I experimented with the trunk lid of my S2000. 1/3 waxed with Ultra Gloss, 1/3 with NXT, and 1/3 with Eagle One Nano Wax. All produced the same level of shine, and it was impossible to tell them apart. The only difference was (after a good drying time after buffing) the NXT "fingerprinted" from nothing but normal skin oils.

Now, you must keep in mind that I live in Oklahoma, where humidity is as bad as Houston and temps are like south central Arizona. So we've got a whole different environment in which the wax must perform than your state of Wisconsin. I will probably use the NXT as a fall and winter wax here, but it is just too smudge prone for summer use here. The Ultra GLoss is totally smudge proof, and very hard. That's why I liked it in the first place. But ah, yes, the abrasive question. The Eagle One was almost as smudge resistant in an Oklahoma summer as Ultra Gloss, so that is what I used, for now. The next (fall) waxing of the S2000 and the MB will probably be with NXT, when our lower temps and humidity will allow for a "harder" finish.

Thanks again,
Richard:) :) :)

[dolebludger]

Sorry again for posting after myself. "Blackfire" has received so much positive response that I have ordered some, and will do a comparisson test with it when it arrives.

Problem may be, if my cars get any shinier, I may be "pulled over" for blinding the view of other drivers!

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
I can appreciate your logic; I can't agree with it.
Houston does have those 95+ degree days.
I believe if you consider the chemical reaction with the burnishing of any wax; then you will realise that if you have wax that finger prints or melts away then you have applied too much of the stuff.
Just a thin coat then burnish with whatever soft cloth you have at hand.
After this you should be able to touch the surface with no ill effects. ( I theenk maybe so, huh).
The no. 26 leaves no "white residue, in fact on the smooth black material it enhenses its appearance.
I'm not trying to get you to use my type; just passing on my experiences.You will make up your mind then do it.
One little trick I do is to wax the top surfaces, top of body, hood and the tops of the finders, maybe 3 times to one for the sides. The sun does not shine upon the vertical parts of the body as much as the horizontal.
Saves effort, time and material.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the shiny one the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[dolebludger]

D.L.:

I did not forget your advice. I'm going out to get some No. 26 tomorrow and give it a try too. I see you live in Texas and have the same humidity problem we do in OK. Hey, these cars are expensive, so trying a little finish protectant for under $100 for all of it is good business. Seriously, the NXT just would not dry out here, and the Nano Wax was a real problem to buff. And I always use as little product as I can get coverage with! So I have not forgotten about trying No. 26 at all, and will do so very soon and discuss its results.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
You've heard about "Swissoil at $65.00 a pop and No.26 at $4.95.
Now I've got one for you.
Joan and I in our younger years were devote motorcyclist.
We rode BMW scooters.
In touring with groups I acquired the nickname, "Mr. Clean".
This was because whenever my scooter got soiled or dusty I would use my magic potent.
I could purchase it at any food market and it even came aromatic.
I chose Lemon fragrance.
You just sprayed it on and wiped it away.
It was years later that Honda recommended it for thier machines.
I've used it on my autos as well.
I stopped on my autos for it left an oily sheen. This came off after the first wash job.
Hold on to your hat for here it comes, PLEDGE furniture polishe.
You must consider that all you want to do is seal the pores of the paint, and as they say any port in a storm.
Just for fun try it in an area that can't be seen except by you. You can remove it by just waxing over it.
You're in for a surprise.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from sillyole Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[bill streep]

I've used PLEDGE for engine compartment detailing for years. My daughters go to Texas Tech in Lubbock. Famous for dust storms. They bring their cars home, and a quick hose off of the engine compartment and they are CLEAN!

[dolebludger]

Here in Oklahoma City, I'd be hesitant to use Pledge on an automobile's exterior. While we might not have the dust storms Lubbock has, I think we have the most dust in the air 24/7 of any place in the US. My cars get very dusty, even when parked for extended times in my garage. You may have noticed in my posts above that the "hardness " of the wax finish and the lack of fingerprinting and smearing are important to me. The "dust factor" is one of the reasons. Even wih a "hard" wax finish, I'm always having to use one of those rag-mop like "California dusters". Also, I am concerned that use of ANY of the softer waxes I've tried and mentioned will lead to imbedded materials in the paint, causing me to spend my life "clay barring".

One thing I've learned from the advice on this thread, and experimenting with it, is that climate conditions play a big role in car wax selection.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[Tom Hanson]

Here's a minor tip for you guys who use towels for drying your car off instead of a chamois : When you wash and dry your old towels that have been reassigned to automotive duty, don't use any fabric softener during the washing or drying process. These softeners can leave a residue in the cloth that will transfer to your car's finish. That's it. Now, in trade for this wisdom, please take turns coming over to my house and help keep this black car clean !!!! Thanks.

[dolebludger]

I am friends with a guy who is one of my dad's neighbors, who is a real pro in the area of detailing, paintless dent removal, and all. He is the manager of the crew that does all such work for our local BMW and Lexus dealers. He told me the shiniest thing he had used was Zymol ---- which any of the products we've discussed beat for shine. I've suggested he try the Ultra Gloss and tell me his professional opinion. I'll report it when I get it.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[dolebludger]

Tom:

The two predicessor cars to our burgandy MB were black, and that is a real problem with ANY wax that is supposed to dry to a white haze before buffing. The white residue gets in all the irregularities. I have some wax that is black in color to solve this, but it is very "cheezy" stuff. If anybody knows of a high quality black colored wax, let us know. Otherwise, for a black car, I'd chose a wax that is to be buffed out BEFORE forming a haze. Zymol comes to mind. And the Blackfire I ordered on your recommendation has not arrived yet, so I don't know how or when it is buffed. If before forming a haze., it may be YOUR answer.

D.L.

I am going to try ole No. 26 very soon , I promise, and will report back I don't know whether it must dry to a haze before buffing or not. If not, it may be for Tom as well.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
Your neighbor tells you that a wax is more shinniere than others.
Our cars painted surfaces don't really shine!
Reflection!
Does the stuff refect with out any interferance in reflecting?
Kind of double talk; but I think you know what I'm trying to say.
Something is shinny but not reflective.
After we work hard or easier our cars painted surface is not shinny it is relective.


Bill;
It's nice to hear of another Pledge nut.
It work quite well in detailing the engine compartment as well as the wneel wells,
Happy Trails Beep Beep from reflective Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[dolebludger]

D.L.

I don't have any report from my professional detailer friend yet on shine or reflection or whatever, regarding Ultra Gloss. Actually, it (by itself) has max reflection but little depth UNLESS followed up by a wipe down with Ultra Gloss detailing spray. I told my friend that. I have not heard a report from him yet. But I promise next try will be ole No. 26. If it performs as you say, I'll ask my professional detailer friend to try that out and report on it. And I'll report on it too.

Around here, Pledge is just going to attract imbedded dust. I know, as that is what it does on our furniture! But in other areas, it just may do the trick.

By the way, I think some may be dismissing Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss a bit too quickly. It gives a very hard and easy to clean finish. I used it on our C320, then took a trip from Okla City to Durango CO and back. Lots of dirt and dust on the way. We were in the rain the last 50 miles, and upon our return, the car did not even need washing! The abrasive issue? I spoke with one of their engineers today, and was told that the abrasive in this product is the same kind used in face wash! If that can damage my clear coat, then the problem is with the paint, not the wax.

Again, will report on No. 26 soon.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
what are you doing up so late?
I don't believe anyone is discountING a product they haven't used before.
We just find one we like and it stops there.
Where you want to test or hear about all of the struff.
Good luck your going to be quite satisfied when it's all over.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don :p

[Ferdman]

Richard, you might want to try P21S. The directions call for it to be removed before it dries to a haze. It is a combination of bees wax and carnauba ... easy on and off, provided you buff it off quickly, plus no white residue.

[dolebludger]

Just did a test area of "ole No. 26. By far, the easiest product of all to apply, of those I've tried so far. Spreads very evenly, so it's easy to get a streak-free shine while using the product sparingly. It is a breeze to wipe off what little haze is involved. Lacks the surface brilliance of Ultra Gloss IMO, but gives a deeper shine. Overall, an outstanding product at a reasonable price. Thanks for the recommendation, D.L.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[dolebludger]

My wife says if I don't quit buying car wax, she's going to start buying jewelery! So I may put off a test of the P21S (which I hear is great) for a little while.

In any event, I tried Blackfire on test areas on our burgandy C320 sedan and our red S2000 roadster. Adjacent on each car, I tried test areas of Ultra Gloss. The verdict. These products, and their results, are indistinguishable under a variety of lighting conditions. Their ease of application is excellent for both. Not as effortless as No. 26, but very acceptable. So we have Ultra Gloss and Blackfire for those who want a highly reflective shine, and No. 26 for those who want a softer, deeper look. A matter of preference only. But all look better than Zymol, about which some enthusiasts rave. All three are great. I paid $9.74 for the Ultra Golss, 11.91 for the No. 26 (tax included), and 22.95 for the Blackfire (shipping included).

Then, I kept fooling around trying to get the NXT and Eagle One Nano to apply and buff right. If I follow the instructions and apply with a DRY foam applicator, I can't do it. These don't spread evenly with a dry applicator like the three mentioned above do. And when I get full coverage of an area, I've got too much product on some areas. This requires repeated buffing to remove, and even then, the NXT was subject to fingerprinting.

So unless or untill I hear something else, it is Blackfire, No. 26 and Ultra Gloss (in alphabetical order) for me at this time. All way better than NXT and Nano due to ease (possibility) of application.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Howdy;
Ole No. 26 did it again!!!!!!! :D
Happy Trails Beep Beep from swelled head Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[mark cummins]

So unless or untill I hear something else, it is Blackfire, No. 26 and Ultra Gloss (in alphabetical order) for me at this time. All way better than NXT and Nano due to ease (possibility) of application.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :) [/B][/QUOTE]

Richard,

The Blackfire Looks Even Better when Done with a Porter Cable
Orbital Buffer! Its The BEST I Have Found...The Best results!

BTW..Why Didnt you run the test with The Zaino or Moose wax?

[dolebludger]

I couldn't try ALL products in just a week or so, and may well try Zaino and Moose wax later. But this thread isn't limited to my experiments. I'd like to here the results of experiments of others.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[Allen]

Maybe I've been in a cave, but someone please clue me in on "CLAY". Have used lots of wax but have never seen this stuff on the shelf. Is it a cleaner, wax or what?

[Ferdman]

Sherrill, clay is a cleaning product used to remove residue from the paint before polishing and waxing ... as the name suggests it is clay. You simply spray a small area of the hood, for example, with a lubricant (I use Meguiar's Quik Detailer), rub the clay over the small area, wipe/buff off the Quik Detailer before it dries and continue on to another area until the entire hood is done. I do the hood in 4 sections, front fenders in one section, etc. ... you'll get the hang of it once you try it. Go to the griotsgarage.com website for information about cleaning clay. I'm sure there are other sources for clay too.

[dolebludger]

Here in Okla. City, many Auto parts stores sell the clay bar and lubricant in a kit. I would like to add that the reason some of us use it as a "cleaner" rather than an abrasive cleaner is that it is "easier" on the clearcoat and paint.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
In your ever so thorogh analysis; have you read about the reaction of the spray on detailer?
I believe it's Meguirs that states that their stuff removes a small layer from the wax or sealant from the surface.
That's what makes it enhense the appearance of the surface.
Use it often and you won't have any thing left on the surface.
If all products react the same; bad news.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from no spray Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[dolebludger]

D.L.

I have three kinds of detail spray in my garage, Ultra Gloss, Meguair's, and Eagle One. I have never liked the Meguair's because it tends to leave smears, not matter what kind of wax is under it and no matter the vehicle or color. Perhaps that's because it was removing too much wax? In any event, the Eagle One worked especially well on a black car I used to own, but for my burgandy, red, and dark green cars now, the Ultra Gloss seems to work best, regardless of what wax is under it (including No. 26) All I know is that I'm not getting any waxy residue on my detailing cloth, and a great shine with Ultra Gloss, No 26 and Blackfire.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dole;
You've tested and made your choice.
I'm going to bed now; I'm so glad that I led you tip toeing through the tulips.
Nite all
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don :p

[dolebludger]

D.L. and all:

Here's an idea I picked up that really isn't bad. For anyone who fears their detailing spray is removing their wax, just fill an old spray bottle with water, spray it on sparingly, and use it as detailer. Really, works pretty well. It sort of "spit shines" the car. Works best with a fairly recently waxed car, and it sure is inexpensive!

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Ferdman;
Sorry that the Web Site was wrong.
I tried www.autoweek.com as well and couldn't find the report on Zymol.
I also tried www.zymol.com to see if they had a similar report; nothing.
Both web sites are very detailed you may wqnt to browse zymol's to see what you can find.
Their TV program's home office is in Owensmill Maryland.
Maybe someone else could help both of us if they saw the program as well.
Bye the way, I can't find my post under detailing; where did you find and reply to.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from lost in the fog Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Read post on the report is in.
I have the Gurureports and I'm way out in left field with my opinion on waxes by thier tests.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don

[dolebludger]

D.L.

To what reports do you refer, and where can I read them?

Thanks,
Richard:confused:

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Read my latest post on the Guru Reports on Wax Test
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don

[dolebludger]

As all can see from my posts above, I now have several different pannels on my three vehicles protected by different wax products, on account of my experimentation. The Blackfire, Ultra Gloss, and No. 26 continue to look better than Zymol, IMO.

But we have an additional factor here in central Oklahoma, and that is constant high dust content in the air. Even garaged cars get a layer of dust in just a little time. So an important question here is, will the dust blow off when I go drive on the highway, or must I wash? Naturally, all car owners here prefer the former! Since we have a lot of bugs, and high heat (which equals road tar), another question is how easy is it to remove bug and tar spots from the protected surface? On these issues, the Ultra Gloss really shines (no pun intended!) Surfaces protected with Ultra Gloss seem to stay more dust free in ordinary use, while bug and road tar spots can be wiped off with a wet rag or with detailing spray. Just my experience.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[dolebludger]

D.L.

Please don't substitute you own opinion for somebody else's test. Your advocacy of No. 26 taught me something, and that is there is DEPTH to shine, as well as pure reflection. So I continued to look for something that would give me BOTH qualities. And I don't think Zymol makes it.

I did find it, however, when I got some Ultra Gloss in PASTE WAX form. Very easy to apply and wipe off. And then if you spritz it down and wipe with some instant detailer, you've got the surface reflectiveness of Ultra Gloss and Blackfire, plus the depth of No. 26. $7.99 here at Autozone.

Also, I've done some more checking and have found that the "abrasive" in this wax is something like corn starch. I think it is safe.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

I would use P21S if it wasn't for the cost.
In the Gurru reports P21S it is the best of all waxes organic; the small 6 oz. container will out wax 10 16 oz containers.
When I've used all of my M 26 I'll order P21S from Performance Products or Zaino's Synthetic which is still better than P21S.
The Gurru instructs not to over wax with P21S. Just a tablespoon of it would cover a Surburban.
You will get wax build-up with P21S then you will have to clay the surface.
With the Zaino's it just keeps getting better the more you apply.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p :p :p