use of CLAY

[Grey Ghost]

I'm a neophyte when it comes to "detailing" a car. A few forum members swear by the use of clay, and I see it sold in AutoZone, but I'm at a loss to understand why it's useful...please enlighten me!

[mark cummins]

The Clay Bar is used in Detailing to remove ..Overspray/Tar/Fallout/sap/etc off of the Paint Surface/Glass/ Wheels...It WILL give you a Smooth finish..Then apply a Cleaner/ Wax for the final finish..Swirl mark remover etc
Use the Clay Bar Instead of harsh Compounds ....Great results!

Just keep the area WET when using the clay and keep folding the clay to trap the material that was removed by the clay

[Allen]

Thanks for asking about clay. I have been wondering what this stuff is , I grew up a car nut and enjoy cleaning mine.

[Ferdman]

Skip, paint cleaning clay effectively removes surface contaminants, as Mark mentions, to restore a smooth finish. I follow the cleaning clay step with a polish (either a machine polish or hand polish). Then I apply a high quality carnauba wax. With each of the products do only a small section at a time per the instructions on the container. Cotton cloths and/or microfiber cloths work well for removing polish and wax.

[Grey Ghost]

thanks for the responses, guys. I've got some sap/resin from trees on the hood of my Tahoe that I have not been able to remove...I'll try clay!

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Once you have done a complete Clay Cleaning all that is required is to rub the surface feeling for contaminants.
Using a squirt bottle with soapy water, squirt and rub only where needed.
I topped my Donka off today with good ole No. 26.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don,:p :p :p

[Allen]

Donka????:)

[Tom Hanson]

Donka ? Did you mean Danke ? Hey, has anyone had any luck getting deep burn marks from bird droppings on the paint surface with clay ?

[Grey Ghost]

"Donka (II)" is the name of Spiderman's beloved 300TD (a car with mucho CHARACTER)

[Ferdman]

Tom, Griot's Garage Fine Hand Polish works well for me on bird dropping marks. Tending to them ASAP is the key to avoid permanent etching of the paint. Frequently a faint outline of the spot remains ... especially on dark colors. Of course, even dust is more noticeable on dark colors

[dolebludger]

Grey Ghost:

You mention tree sap on one of your vehicles, and your plans to use clay bar to remove it. Perhaps it will, depending on the type of sap, amount, and amount of wax underneath the sap. And, perhaps clay bar won't remove the sap. Should this be the case, use rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol on a soft rag. This will chemically remove the sap, rather than mechanically do so. My house has a number of large, old pine trees near it, so this has been a problem for me. The alcohol has been the only thing that has worked, and it's quick and easy. There are some who say that car paint can be damaged by alcohol, and they are right, if the stuff is allowed to set on the paint for a long time. So make sure you wash down the area just as soon as youv'e cleaned off the sap. I've never had any paint damage this way.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Tom:
I hope theese lil birdee doo doo ain't on your new El Negra?
If it eess so the uretha in the birdee peepee will attack any painted surface; especially callente negra.
I keep a squirt bottle with distilled H2o and a soft old used towel in the trunk for just such occasions.
Even on that mucho callente surface of El Negra; squirt and wipe hees leetle face.
But whatever you do; DO NOT apply wax on a hot paint.
Good luck with your new toy and maybe he will give you as much joy as "Donka II has given me!
Donka I has been passed on.
But he won't have the character of a 123.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p :p :p :p

p.s. Tom where do you store your Tacks?

[dcashour]

clay

When I took delivery of my '99 e300td beauty in December, I had the interior detailed, but decided to tackle the outside myself. I had great difficulty removing the MILLIONS of tiny black diesel residue spots from the WHITE paint. I contacted a friend who sells detailing supplies to the detailing shops. He recommended the clay, and boy did that work! It took me about 5 hours to clean the entire car. If you don't have tendonitis before you start the job, you surely will when you've finished.

He then recommended I use a product called Auto Magic GS-1 Color and Gloss Restorer, then for the final application Collinite's No. 845 Heavy Duty Insulator Wax. For me, this wax is by far the best I have ever used. I have not had one tiny spec of diesel residue stick to the car since December. It's very easy to wash the car and water beads up just as if it was waxed yesterday. I understand that the insulator wax is highly favored for marine and airplane use as well.

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dcashour;
Day before yesterday I clayed Donka.
I do my cleaning the most frequent only the surfaces that are horizontal to trees, birds, and the sun.
Over the years I've found that the surfaces vertical to those paint damaging reascals only need attention about i/4 the times as the hood, top, the tops of the fenders and the deck lid.
That leaves the doors and the fender sides.
The most difficult areas to clay are these. It's hard to keep enough water on the surface.
If you don't have enough liquid you deposit clay on the paint surfaces.
Get a clay bar and see for yourself, it don't come cheap but out lasts many cleaners and leaves no swirl marks.
It was mentioned by someone else to follow with a cleaner/ polish. This isn't done. as the cleaner is an abrasive and leaves swirl marks. Follow with wax and apply it in line with the body straight line no cicrles.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don
:p :p :p

[dolebludger]

None of our cars ever sits outside for very long. As a result, I have never had to use clay on the vertical surfaces of any of them (except for when I accidently got some paint "overspray" on the side of my truck).

If it took five hours to "clay bar" a car, the car was either very "dirty" or not enough lubricant was used, or both. I've always found "clay bar" use to be one of the easiest parts of the detailing process. Remember ---- DON'T SPARE THE LUBRICANT.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[dcashour]

Well, the car was dirty from the diesel soot. Most areas had to be worked pretty hard, with plenty of lubricant, though maybe I didn't use enough. But, it has been nine months since the dirty task, and that paint is as smooth as...well you know. The polish is a very non-abrasive type, and just cleans up all the residue and left over junk from the clay use and prepares the girl for waxing. I don't expect to have to do it again on the entire car--just some spots up front from bug killing. I agree that the top surfaces were definitely the toughest.

On another topic, any suggestions for keeping the alloy wheels from getting so dirty. It seems that they get dirty so fast, and it's fairly difficult to clean them. Thanks

[dolebludger]

Yes, Rain X Wheel Protectant spray dries to a "slick" coating on the wheels which keeps some dust off the wheels, and allows the remaining dust to be washed off more easily. If the design of your wheels allows it, you can also opt to to polish your wheels with a car polish or wax that leaves a very "hard" and "non-sticky" finish. Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss is an example.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dchasour;
You had left on goop after claying?
If yes, there is a remedy for that; You probabley didn't use a surfacant ;a few drops of liquid dishwashing soap in your squirt bottle filled with tap water; and your may not have used enough water. Try this and see if you leave no goop on the paint.
Don't forget to knead the clay when in use.
Dirty Wheels!
In there years I've had a Benz; I've found only one method to minimze brake dust to the point you only have to wash the wheels with the left over car wash remaining in your bucket.
That would be the contraversial "Dust Shields" on all four wheels.
Now that will awaken the no sayers.
I've tried waxing/polishjing my wheels and found that the heat the wheels get from the brakes turned the coating a yellowish color, but this is not to say if it works for you.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don, :p :p :p

[dolebludger]

Yes, and let me hasten to add that use of Rain X Wheel Protectant or a hard-surfaced wax on the wheels does just a little bit of good in preventing brake dust on the front wheels, and easing its removal. Not a cure by any means.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger;
I don't think there will ever be a cure but the use of a harder pad material minimizes the dust at the trade off of poor brake pedal feel.
There is no cure, everything is just a Bandaide for an on going problem.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don:p :p :p

[dcashour]

Thanks for all the tips. Just one more: what might you recommend for getting the wheels real clean for applying a protectant or wax? I use something like Wheel Magic, which is adequate, but maybe there's something better? What about a special type of brush?

Many thanks

[dolebludger]

I suggest that the matter of doing a major cleaning of the wheels might depend on how the wheels are finished. If they are clear coated like those on my W203, you might start by washing with a wheel cleaner as you mention. Then, you might want to use an automotive finish cleaner, of the type you would use to remove old wax from your car. And you could use the clay to remove any particles that stick to the wheel finish. Then, you could use a polish that has a high non-wax content and a high polymer content. Eagle One Nano Wax, Blackfire, and Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss come to mind. Use of a 100% wax product could, in time, produce the yellowing that D.L Swinford mentions. After the wheels are so polished, you might use the spray-on Rain X Wheel Protectant after each washing. Again, all this will help some, but won't be a cure.

The use of "Kleen Wheels" protective discs between the wheels and the brake discs is controversial, as many threads on this board show. Our Section Tech tells me that these will shorten pad life (and more importantly, rotor life) if used on a car that is driven aggressively OR is driven mainly in urban or suburban environments. They should have little negative effect if the car is driven conservatively AND mainly on highways.

There are also replacement brake pads which are supposed to be no harder than stock, but which are of a lighter color so that the dust tends to match the wheels. As my car is driven conservatively, BUT is driven almost entirely in the suburbs, I will look into these pads when mine wear out.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

desahour;
As mentioned I use the remaining car wash solution remaining in my wash bucket.
If I need addictional washing I've use "409", or other household cleaners. These will remove the build up of wax.
If the clear coat has worn away becareful to check that the cleaner doesn't attack the aluminum.
I believe the commercial Wheel Cleaners" have the same disclaimer.
I think that using Clay on the Wheels would be an impossible task.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spideman on The Gulf Coast, Don
:p :p :p

[dolebludger]

D.L.

A clarification here. Certainly, attempting to use clay to clean an entire wheel would be difficult, and impossible for some wheel styles. What I meant by my reference to using clay for wheel cleaning was that the clay could be used if there is a little stuborn spot of "goop" on a wheel that just wont wash off. I've used clay successfully for getting off such a little spot, but certainly would never advise using clay to clean an entire wheel, unless the wheel were of a very open and accessible design, such as those on our '04 C320.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[dcashour]

Gotcha. As soon as the remnants of Jeanne finish dumping some rain on us on Tuesday, I'll get serious with these wheels. Thanks for the advice. It looks like I'll try a few different avenues and see what works best. I'll let you know how I make out.

Dave