Mercedes detailing

[bsf61]

Just purchased pre-owned E320 (black); the dealer is trying to sell me a detailing package (inside and out). Any advice on whether the package is worthwhile. I park the car outside.

[mark cummins]

I Would NOT use The Dealers Detail Shop..Where are You in California?..There are SEVERAL Great Detail Shops here in So Cal.
Meguiars Just Opened a Detail Center in Lake Forest...VERY NICE!

Meguiars also Puts on classes to Help YOU Learn How to detail Your car with the correct Products...Meguiars.com for Info

Get some referals and look at some of the Work done!
Most anyone can pick up a Buffer and have a go with it ...But it takes a EXPERT to Use it the correct way!


Also Might want to Invest in a Good car cover..Calcarcover.com

[bsf61]

Mark: thanks for your comments. I am in Northern California. The detailing being proposed comes with a 5 year warranty for the paint. I am vague as to its origin or composition. Any thoughts??

[Ferdman]

bsf61, please provide some more detailed information so the club members can evaluate whether the dealer-supplied detailing package is worthwhile. The 5 year warranty for the paint is an interesting twist ... is it dependent on regular follow-up detailings at the dealer? I suspect that a contractor does the detailing for the dealer, and the dealer marks up the price. Better to do it yourself or take it to a detailer.

[meme]

bsf61:

I had my C230 Kompressor 2000 detailed at the Mercedes dealer, Houston, Greenway. I was very satisfied with the results; plan to do it once a year. The total cost was around $200. Many people compliment me on how nice the car looks. On the other hand, I suppose that the results of detailing depend on the condition of the car before detailing. My car was in very good shape.

meme
C230 Kompresor
Sport Package
CLK 320

[Ferdman]

bsf61, after thinking about it some more maybe some MB dealers are going into the "detail business" as a way of offering customers one-stop shopping, utilizing their in-house staff better and increasing their profits. One local MB dealer details pre-owned cars before they go on the lot so it would follow that the dealer might offer detail service to their customer base to fill the gaps when their detailers have no pre-owned cars to prep. I do recall that our 1998 E320 (which we purchased new) was detailed/prepped by a detail shop under contract to the MB dealer. Perhaps that dealer's perspective on detailing has changed and it is cost effective to perform that work in-house.

[bsf61]

All: the deal is proposing a 3 stage silicon treatment for the exterior paint that will result in a mirror finish and not require waxing. the interior will also have a silicon treatment that will protect the leather and cloth from spills. There is a 5 year warranty for the treatment - that is, if the paint stains or the lether, they will repaint, etc. the cost is $1000. Any thoughts.

[meme]

bsf61:
However, that will destroy the original characteristics of the car! Is the Mercedes-Benz dealer proposing this deal? I plan to keep my Mercedes cars as close as possible to the original conditions.

Meme
C230 Kompressor
Sport Package
CLK 320

[bsf61]

Meme: the dealer is proposing this.

[John Fair]

My lazy freind opted for something similar for his BMW. I don't think he ever waxed a car in his life. He was very proud of the expensive teflon treatment which by the way had to be done once a year to maintain the warrenty.

The local Ford dealer tried to hard sell me something similar for the Tauras. I told them that if the paint was no good then lets just call the deal off. Next he tried to sell me undercoating. Once again I told him if the car isn't going to last 5 years then lets just call the deal off. One of the young kids in the office opted for the full package. I can't say his car is holding up any better.

Personally, I would be more interested in the 3M clear film applied to the front end to prevent stone chips. :D

[dolebludger]

Just a few comments here.

First, if I were to buy a used MB from our local dealer (at the prices charged there) I would EXPECT to receive the car detailed upon delivery, included in the price.

Second, I can't recommend a polish that is all silicone. It does not become hard. A good polish, by todays standards, contains some quality wax for depth, some polymers for hardness, and just a bit of silicone for "top shine". These, of course, are combined with cleaners if the polish is a usual "cleaner wax." Generally, for us do-it yourselfers, I recommend Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss, Meguires NXT, Blackfire, and Eagle One Nano Wax ---- all in liquid form. Which one depends on the color of the car. For interiors, I recommend 303 for all vinyls, plastics, MB Tex, and leather. Silicone on the interior is, IMO, a real NO NO!

Third, it would be important to know the cost of the dealer's detailing package, and the terms of the warranty.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

There will come a time depending upon how long you plan on keeping your Benz when you will take great pride in doing the "Detaing" yourself.
Those of us who have had our Benz of CHARACTER stand back with swelled chest when people rave at the appearance of out Joy.
Meq. puts on a super how to do it.
I live in the Houston area and keep my '85 w123133 garaged; I have never needed a cleaning(abrasive) procedure on my "Smoke Silver Clearcoat" paint.
I clay rub and seal with Meq's #w27.
Do it yourself and become addicted to the once a month Hands On sealing.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don,
:p :p :p

[Grey Ghost]

you are too funny...I'm glad you're back in the saddle, firing off responses to 90% of the new Forum items

glad to know ye, Mr. Chairman

ride on, ride on

[dolebludger]

I too like DYI auto detailing. I used to be quite the "handy man". Once I tore off the front of my daughter's oversized one car garage and put a two car door on it and built it back ---- one morning! Age has taken its toll, and I couldn't do that anymore. But auto detailing remains within my abilities. Sometimes, our Okla. weather does not cooperate and it is too cold to do what needs doing. But detailing is a job that gives great rewards for the effort.

Then there is the intellectual side of it. There's so much to learn from these boards. And if your Section is like mine, there's much to learn there. Like the fact that we all have different polish preferences because we have different color cars and different tastes in how "hard" or "soft" we want the shine to look.

Even when I buy a new car, I always find that the wax job is a bit under done --- so I give the car a proper one right away!

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Hey Skip;
I don't know what you meant in that last reply?
I may be TOO Funny, oh I know you; you're that other Skip HUH?
Love yah G.G.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don:p :p :p

[JoeCPA]

OK, I need to be realistic. I'm going to wash my car but I'm not going to be a fanatic about detailing myself. My question:

1. What's the best thing to use for washing the car?

2. What's the most important thing when considering a detailer?

[Ferdman]

Joe, I recommend using a Griot's Garage boar hair brush with a mix of Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash and warm water to wash your car. To evaluate a detailing job I'd want to see several cars before and after detailing and check the products, equipment and process that the detailer uses.

[JoeCPA]

Thanks!! Is there anything to specifically avoid....... mixture ingredients, rags, brushes, particular equipment, etc. ?????

[dolebludger]

I'll take a stab at an answer to this question, in hopes that others will chime in as well. Aviod any detergent other than a name-brand car washing detergent. Avoid power washers. Wash the car with either a boar's hair brush or a "wolly pad", and in either event, rinse periodically to avoid rubbing any grit on your paint.

Drying (to me) is more of a problem than washing. As I keep my cars waxed well, it is easy to blow off maybe 75% of the water with a power leaf blower. Then a quick rub down with an artificial chamois such as "Eagle One Absorber" will remove the water down to 99%. Make sure to rinse this with clear water from time to time, to get rid of any imbedded particles that could scratch. Natural chamois have a bad habit (to my experience) of stripping wax, and I find them less effective at water removal than the "Absorber". Remember to store the absorber in its original sealed tube to prevent drying out. The final step is a wipe down with microfiber towells. These are small, and available at auto parts stores everywhere. Wash these with your laundry after every use to, again, get rid of any grit that could scratch. Avoid old towells from household use, as they can be too rough for car wash use.

And, as to washing, that's about it from me. Anybody else?

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[bsf61]

Thanks to all who took the time to respond. I get the message -- do it yourself!!! I'm off to buy the materials now. Thanks again.

[JoeCPA]

I agree...thanks for all the advice....in one month sounds like I've done everything wrong!!!!!

[Ferdman]

Richard, glad to see that I'm not alone in using a backpack blower for drying. I'd estimate that provided the car has a good coat of wax my backpack blower removes 95% of the water droplets. I follow-up with a 100% cotton towel to remove the remaining water on the car, wheels, door jambs and trunk opening. A backpack blower is gentler on wax than a California Water Blade, chamois or towels because you're not touching the paint. It's also much faster.

[dolebludger]

Fred:

When I spoke to the folks at Griot's Garage yesterday about one of their boars hair washing brushes, they said they also recommend use of a blower to dry a car after washing. My blower won't get it all off, but it takes very little hand drying after that.

Thanks,
Richard

[dolebludger]

Folks, this talk about using a power leaf blower to dry cars just gave me an idea. Wouldn't it be nice if some company made a blower specifically for this purpose? It would be ultra high speed, and perhaps wouldn't need the sheer volume of air that a leaf blower puts out. It would be electric, of course, and perhaps could add a bit of heat to speed the drying process. (Think of a giant hair dryer!) Or perhaps such a product is already available. Does anybody know of such a thing?

Thanks,
Richard:) :confused: :)

[Allen]

First of all, thanks to whoever first shared the leaf blower idea,
Oh, yea, I like it! It saves time and towels, especially on the Suburban.
As far as these "protectant / wax " packages that dealers offer. When I was in college I worked after school running errands and washing cars at a Cadillac dealership a few blocks from campus. This was a cool job as I have always liked cars and had lots of opportunities to drive new ones. At that time one of the "treatments" offered was also promoted by other dealerships. It was a ripoff! I had the opportunity to see cars that had this application, when they returned for service and complimentary wash, from what I saw it was no better than a good wax job.:)

[mbzjag8090]

Another good idea for drying is the California Water Blade. They do a good job in VERY little time.

[Highflyer]

I have found that using Eagle One Wax-As-U-Dry (used on wet car before drying) makes it much easier to dry and it adds a coat of wax. I detailed my SL last April and the car still has a mirror smooth finish.
Jim :)

[tiggerfink]

I purchased the Centennial Collection with Dual Action Polisher. I even call them on the toll free number for instructions. They were very helpful.

This is what I learned for new cars with clear coat.

1. Wash with Meguiars's Gold Class shampoo.
2. Inspect the car, and use clay or scratch X if needed.
3. If clay or used scratch X, must wash again.
4. Dry with micro-fiber towel
5. Polish with Deep Crystal System.
6. Wax with Meguiar's Gold Class clear coat liquid wax.

[JoeCPA]

Has anyone used Cajun Shine All? is it a good product?

[D.L. SWINFORD]

I've really got good info about "Blower" on our forum.
I've used one for quite sometime and have had good luck even though it tires these old arms a little bit.
As one of your moderators, new as of late, I decided to read more and say less.
But I can't pass up the opportunity to pass on my initial blow dry technique!
Of course we wash either in the garage or in the shade; let him/her drip dry for a minute or so.
Then I fire-up the old "Tin Lizzy" and drive around the block.
Does a super job and since you had to drive into the garage anyway why not drive around the block?
You understand it doesn't get cold or freeze down south.
Silly HUH?
Until Then JOY
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Chairman of the Board, Your Moderator, Don:p :p :p

'85 300DT 284Kmiles Donka II
Filled today, 21.7mpg city @ $1.81.9 Citco Prem

[dolebludger]

Don:

The "drying by driving" method will work for me if I have quick access to a freeway or turnpike where I can get up to highway speed (or maybe a little above). Not as efficient as a good leaf blower though. A good blower puts out air at 200 mph or more.

With all the conflicting opinions about the leaf blower method, I would be a little more cautious about it ---- except for the fact that the folks at Griots Garage recommended it to me. I think we all know that Griots knows this stuff, and would have recommended something else if this were damaging ---- and would have sold me something else to dry with as well!

For the tired, old arms problem in using a leaf blower, you might try an electric one. Lighter than gasoline models, and some also blow air faster.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[tiggerfink]

If the Cadillac dealership is using compress air, I see no harm from a left blower.

[D.L. SWINFORD]

As your Moderator and an owner of 2 MB both over twenty years of age both with clearcoat paint;
Both of mine still have the original coating.
Neither has had a Bores hair brush, Egyptian Pima cotton drying towel or protection coating that cost me $30.00 per container.
Nothing but a wash mit, car wash and wheel cleaners that were on sale, and Meguires #26 paste/liquid.
If you view my '85 300DT in "Here I AM, or something like that you will see a finish that is as "reflective" as any new paint.
Where have I gone wrong?
All of these Fancy Schmancy methods came about with the advent of "Car Detailing", the thing to do or have.
I don't mean to be negative to what others want to do, but why?
As your Moderator I feel I should report what info may be of value to you.
I have a report on what is supposed to me the best products and methods and the "HIGH PRICED" spread aint it.
Until Then JOY
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on The Gulf Coast,Your Moderator, Chairman of The Board Don:p :p :p

[dolebludger]

Don:

I agree. there are many good wax products available under $10 per bottle. All the products I've cited in any of my posts (except Blackfire) are in this price range --- including #26. Us "ole boys" from places like Yukon, Oklahoma, don't buy any product just for status.The only question is does it work? The boar's hair brush really does a superior job, especially in cold weather as the pole it is mounted on keeps your hands out of the water. I think it has to do with the fact that water is flowing to the bristles while you scrub and rinse. Just gets off more dirt that way. I agree --- way too expensive at $80 plus shipping, but I couldn't find a cheaper SOFT bristle alternative. But for final drying, I agree that it is hard to beat an old towel --- provided that you are sure it is 100% cotton. Any polyester content may scratch.

BTW, I just tried Eagle One Wax as you Dry. Washed my S 2000. Last waxed in early November. Hood and trunk lid weren't beading well. The Wax as you Dry did a much better job than detailing spray, and will probably protect well enough to let the car go until spring for a major wax job.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger, Richard;
As the Moderators we both feel we should report what facts we find and what personal experience we've had.
If it works for you then by all means use it.
Neither of us is trying to dictate how and with what.
Or do we run down what someone else thinks is right.
That's that persons choice and it must be right by him.
I polishe front to rear.
Another does it rear to front.
Both get the job done.
Until then JOY

Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Your Moderator, Chairman of The Board, Don :p :p :p

'85 300DT 284Kmiles Donka II

[LexGuy]

Did you mention what he's charging for the pacikage?

[A Perfect Shine]

I am a professional detailer so maybe I can help you out with this topic of if you should get the $1000 detail from the dealer with a 5 year warranty.

The answer is a definate NO.

It's basically a ploy for them to make extra money. There is no such thing as a sealant or a wax that will last 5 years. They are trying to sell a normal $200 detail for $1000 and being very deceptive about it which I really don't like.

I have actually thought about doing these, there are several companies that sell products designed for doing this and they even give you the warranty. Really it's a rip off and I didn't want any part of it.

You can give yourself the same protection that they offer, probably better, for about $50 in supplies and a few hours work.

I would reccommend Klasse All In One Sealant which is a mild polish and sealant that will provide a very nice base coat for whatever you want to put on next.

After that I suggest Klasse Sealant Glaze as it will add quite a bit of protection, definatly one of if not the most durable product available.

If you want to add depth to your paint after the previous two steps then you can wax over it. Meguiars #26 is a pretty good wax and I do use it by the gallon, but I prefer either S100 Paste wax or Natty's Paste Wax. Both of these paste waxes are about $15 but they are both very easy to use and significantly better then any cheaper wax that I have found.

I buy most of these products from www.topoftheline.com as they have the best prices that I have found online.

If you have any other questions please feel free to email me at Jon@aperfectshinedetailing.com

[bob vann]

have 2000 CLK 320 - have regularly cleaned steering wheel with Meguiar's leather cleaner - interior color is 218 - ash gray - steering wheel is a little darker gray. the dye has rubbed off the steering wheel in one area. does anyone have experience restoring the appearance? I have contacted "Leatherique" and ordered O.E.M. dye, but I am afraid it will be the 218 ash gray and not the slightly darker shade I need. I would appreciate any advice anyone could pass along.