wax

[tiggerfink]

I have been using Mequiar's Gold Class car wash, Meguiar’s Deep Crystal Polish, and Meguair's Gold Class clear coat liquid car wax. Lately I noticed that the wax has only been lasting about 3 months. So is there a wax that will last about 6 months or should I use a new wax? Maybe I need to layer the Meguiar’s wax since I only use one coat?

I am thinking about trying out Zymol cream or P21S. I wonder if they do a better job and last longer than the Meguiar's wax that I am currently using.

I just my SL to look great at Star Tech.

[Ferdman]

Thomas, I wholeheartedly endorse the Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash ... does a fine job for weekly washings and easy on wax. Rather than P21S you might want to try Griot's Garage Carnauba Wax ... from my experience lasts longer than P21S. With weekly washings I haven't found any wax that causes water to bead up after more than 3 months. Consider using a backpack blower for drying so that you're not wearing the wax off with drying towels or a California Water Blade.

[tiggerfink]

I called Meguiar's today to ask about layering the wax. He told me it is an urban legend. The chemist at Meguiar's said layering will not help the wax last longer.

If I want my wax to last longer, Meguiar's said to use the Meguiar's NXT Generation® Tech Wax.

[dolebludger]

Preferences in waxes tend to be a personal thing, and depend on several factors. Different waxes look better on different color cars. Durability depends on whether the car is garaged, how long it is exposed outside, and weather conditions.

For what it's worth, my preference on my dark red C 320 is Turtle wax Ultra Gloss liquid, followed with a wipe down with Eagle One "Wet Look" detailing spray. On this color, it gives a hard, bright, and long lasting shine.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[Allen]

I have found marine wax to be more durable. For example, regular car wax (when applied to a boat) is stripped immediately when introduced to salt water. Ssooo, as I buy yacht wax in large quantities, I tried it on the cars and it does hold up much better and gives a super slick, high gloss finish.

[dolebludger]

Allen:

The use of marine wax sounds like a good idea, especially for cars that spend much time out in the elements and not in a garage. How easy or difficult is it to apply and polish out?

On the subject of a different wax, I unknowingly carried in a big paint brush with house paint on it, and rubbed it on the front fender of my C 320. And I didn't notice it for a couple of days. When I was that big white paint streak, I freaked! But it just wiped off with a soft cloth. The house paint just couldn't stick on that paint which was protected with Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[LexGuy]

Before I bought my C 240 I didn't even know about Meguiars. Now I wouldn't use anything else. MHO.

[bill streep]

Just to relate a similar wax story: Back in 1974 it was the summer between high school and college. I had a '66 250S, that I bought with my own money the DAY I got my driver's license. I used to wax that car once a week with Turtle Wax (when you wax it that often, it takes about 15 minutes, 'cause the wax wipes off VERY easily). We were playing tennis when a storm came up, and one of those folding umbrellas that goes into an outdoor table blew over, and cartwheeled right towards my car. To my horror (and everyone else's)The metal pipe end managed to run/grind ALL THE WAY across my hood. I took out the Turtle Wax, ran it up the gouge (which it turns out was in the WAX), buffed it and it was PERFECT. But now I use Meguiers...:confused:

[dolebludger]

Let me point out that Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss is not "your father's Turtle Wax." Meguair's comparable wax is NXT. The difference between the two? I've observed that Ultra Gloss is easier to use, while NXT is better at covering swirills and microscopic scratches. Therefore, both can be found in my garage.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

tiggerfink;
This is about as debaitable as motoroil to use.
According to "GURU REPORTS", www.gurureports.com and www.infogurureports.com the following were found under thier tests to be superior waxes, polish, and cleaners.
The best in all catagories,
low priced Carnuba "Armor All Diamon Hard Shine" B-
mid priced Carnuba, "Collinite Super Double Coat Wax" C+
"Meguiars Gold Class" C+
"Mother's Calif.Gold Pure Carnuba" B-
premium priced Carnuba wax,
"P21S Concours Carnuba Wax" B+
Synthetic Waxes, "Zaino Bros. Show Car Polish" A-
You can see which one rates what
Not gonig into there tests, you might want to look see yourself or do as I did buy thier publication.
It not only tests the leading shineum up stuff but tips and other preservative methods.
As I said you've opened a can of worms, read from a group that tested them all and make up your mind. The Spiderman:p :p :p

[tiggerfink]

I just want to find a wax that will last for a least for a year. I am getting lazy as I grow older.

[D.L. SWINFORD]

tiggerfink;
According to "Guru Reports", thier conclusion is"without a doubt"
the synthetic products ruled the test especially in the durability department.
One product really stood out as "incredible" in this shoot out, and it was the "Zaino Bros. Polish" they also liked "P21S".
Hope this helps.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of the Board :p :p :p

[Ferdman]

Don, my experience with P21S on several different cars and several different applications has been poor as far as durability is concerned. So much so that I stopped using it. P21S doesn't hold up for more than a few mild washings with Meguiar's Gold Class Car Wash.

[dolebludger]

Don:

While I have never used PS 21 or Zaino, the folks on the S 2000 board also say Zaino doesn't last long. My cars are garaged so my experiences might not apply to all, but I've had the best durability from products that combine natural wax with synthetics. These include (but are not limited to) Meguair's NXT, Eagle One Nano Wax, and Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss. I also suspect (but do not know for sure) that Blackfire falls into this category.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[Highflyer]

Thomas, I have found that using Eagle One Wax-As-U-Dry (used on wet car before drying) makes it much easier to dry and it adds a coat of wax. I detailed my SL last April and the car still has a mirror smooth finish.
Jim

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Gang;
I personally use Meguires 26 Liquid or Paste.
The info I quoted is not from my personal experience only passing on what was published in "Guru Reports" and extensive test of most products available.
If your experience differs then ofcourse use what works for you, because I did.
I'm not concerned with durability for I do Donka II before He needs it.
He has never needed an abrasive cleaning or a blended solution!
Until then, JOY!
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of the Board :p :p :p

[Tom Hanson]

Consult a professional car painter and see what waxes to avoid. Be very careful as to what you put on your paint. If you ever need to have a small spot repaired, it could turn into a huge job.

[tiggerfink]

Originally posted by D.L. SWINFORD
Gang;
I personally use Meguires 26 Liquid or Paste.
The info I quoted is not from my personal experience only passing on what was published in "Guru Reports" and extensive test of most products available.
If your experience differs then ofcourse use what works for you, because I did.
I'm not concerned with durability for I do Donka II before He needs it.
He has never needed an abrasive cleaning or a blended solution!
Until then, JOY!
Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of the Board :p :p :p

The only thing that I do not like about Meguiars is that it is hard to take off rubber and plastic parts. I have problems taking off the wax on rubber and plastic parts. Is there a way to take off the wax on the plastic and rubber parts?

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Thomas;
There aren't many products that when it is applied, in error, on plastic parts that is a real headache to remove!
You're going to laugh when you use what works for me.
Peanut Butter---NO JELLY
Try it!
Until Then, JOY
Happy Trails Beep Beep from Then Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of The Board:p :p :p


Donka II a '85 300DT

[dolebludger]

Wax residue on black plastic or rubber exterior parts can be taken off either with detailing spray or with 303, also.

As to wax selection, after I ordered some Blackfire from Classic Motoring Accessories, Ltd., I have received their email detailing newsletter. It confirms what I have suspected, and that is different waxes look best on different colors. For my dark red metalic C 320, Ultra Gloss, Blackfire, and NXT look best, as their higher reflective qualities seem to be needed on this car. For my dark green metalic Ford truck (which is well-kept dispite its age) Meguires #26 looks best as is gives a depth that looks good on this color.

It is correct that some products cause more problems should you ever need a spot repainting. That's because they are harder to remove. Problem is, the products that are easiest to remove for spot repainting are also those which are more quickly removed be washing. So there is a bit of a trade-off here.

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger;
Donka II is Dark Smoke Metallic Clearcoat;
The Meguires #26 works best for me.
When Donka II needs a little cleaning or wax removal I have always used "Body Clay" using in line hood to trunk direction and nothing else.
I seal with #26 and buff by hand after a panel has dried.
Not being so elaborate with my appling and buffing I use hand me down bath towels.
Until Then, JOY
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of The Board:p :p :p


Donka II '85 300TD

[dolebludger]

Don:

I've been told that old towels are great for waxing and drying --- so long as we are sure they are 100% cotton. Some towels contain some polyester which I have heard can scratch. But all cotton towels are just great for waxing and drying.

And the claybar method is the first thing I try for cleaning, as it is the most gentle. It takes care of most cleaning problems. I doubt if it would clean any wax off sufficiently for spot painting, however. But for pure detailing purposes, it is the cleaner of "first resort" , before use of any chemicals or abrasives.

BTW, thanks for your recommendation of Meguair's # 26 on another thread. As I said, it is best for some colors. Apparently these include dark green and dark smoke.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger;
I miss-understood you were wanting to re-paint!
I believe the best method for that would be the fine grit wet/dry paper, i.e. 2000, 1500. etc.
Until Then, Joy!
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of The Board :p :p :p

Donka II '85 300 DT

[dolebludger]

Don:

No, I don't want to repaint anything. I was merely addressing Tom Hanson's comment that some waxes and the like are hard to remove IF repainting of an area ever becomes necessary. Like you, I use claybar for ordinary car cleaning.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[atclew]

Howdy from Chicagoland,

If anyone can find a wax that will last an entire year, I'd love to purchase it. But everyone's environmental conditions they live in are vastly different.

Whatever you do....NEVER use a leaf blower or similar device on a car outdoors! You run a high risk or blowing contaminants onto your finish and marring it. Stunts like that make a bodyshops day!

My father and I used to paint cars for a living and have run the gamut of polishes and waxes. I have been using Meguiars' products solely the past 3 years.

This past October I detailed a friend's car, using a claybar, paint cleaner, hand polish and 2 coats wax, (all Meguiars products). He just told me yesterday that his wax is still holding up and beading as if I'd applied it yesterday.

Here's my point; If you're willing to spend a little extra time twice a year, you can keep your car's finish looking pristine with regular washings. Regardless of whether you choose to use Meguiars, Zymol, Zaino Bros, Turtlewax, etc.

Just my two cents worth.

Lew

[dolebludger]

Lew:

I see this becoming an iteresting debate over blow drying. Actually, some of us are doing this to PREVENT rubbing any particulant matter left by washing into the finish, while you suggest that blow drying actually INCREASES this risk. I must confess that I don't have the answer, so it would be interesting to see other opinions on this subject.

Thanks,
Richard:) :confused: :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger;
I'm with you, the Jury is out on Blow drying using the leafy blower.
I use one of those noisy rascals and feel if it blows something into Donka II's paint then I'll have to stop driving him for fear of doing the same.
I know the blower has air velocity of 2xx mph and we only drive 60-80 mph.
The blowers angle to the paint is different than the highway air speed angle.
The only caution I can give is not to allow the blower nozzle to slide across the paint and do BIG time HURT.
Just think about.
Until Then JOY!

Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don :p :p :p

'85 300 DT Donka II

[tiggerfink]

I was at the Cadillac dealer looking at a red XLR. I saw them drying the car with an air hose. I also met Jerry Lee Louis that day. It was his new car.

[atclew]

Originally posted by D.L. SWINFORD
I know the blower has air velocity of 2xx mph and we only drive 60-80 mph.


So you're basically turning your leafblower into a sandblaster if you kick up a little bit of dust or other contaminants into the air.

If that's an acceptable risk, by all means go for it. Just wish my father was still in the auto-body business! :cool: :D

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger, Richard
You're right this has to satisfy the end user.
We do it our way; you do it yours.
Until Then JOY

Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Chairman of The Board, Don:p :p :p

'85 300DT Donka II

[Ferdman]

Here are some things to consider regarding the use of a backpack blower for drying a car:

1. The last station at an automatic car wash is a huge blower to remove as much water as possible before the 'towel crew' thoroughly dries the entire car. If this was a problem the commercial car washes would be getting sued regularly by BMW, Mercedes owners, etc.

2. When using a backpack blower to dry a car you're either blowing down or across panels so as not to blow small stones or debris lying on the ground toward the car.

3. If the air where you're washing your car is so contaminated that it would damage the finish if blown at a high velocity then you should proabably be wearing a dust mask to protect your lungs.

[dolebludger]

Actually, the leaf blower I've used is a hand-held rather than a back pack. Whether this is good or bad, I don't know. But I do know it only works if you have a good wax job on your car, so that the water beads up and blows off the finish easily. As Fred says, I blow dry with the nozzle at a very close angle to the surface so as to scoot the water off. Bowing at 90 degrees is no good.

Thanks,
Richard:) :) :)

[Ferdman]

Richard, a hand-held blower works fine. Although it strains your back more than a backpack type and is more difficult to maneuver. I speak from experience because I started out with a hand-held blower to cleanup leaves and quickly realized it's shortcomings and the advantages of a backpack blower.

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Now we've heard from the users.
Commercial blowers at the carwash, Backpack and hand held Blowers.
Take your choiuce or even NO.
Until Then JOY
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don, Chairman of The Board, Don:p :p :p

'85 300DT 284K miles Donka II

[marlinspike]

My favorite waxes are P21S (for an indoor car) and One Grand Blitz Wax (for an outdoor car since it lasts longer). I also like the P21S drying cloth and the P21S shampoo (though Sonax is my favorite, but it's in short supply). Just to give a plug to my favorite place to buy car care stuff from is carcareonline.com, and I think Larry gives good advice too.

Also, I don't know why everyone is recommending blowers. They're just a good way to get fine scratches on your paint. Oh, and I saw Ferdman's thing. The car washes not getting sued doesn't mean anything. Those things they used to guide your wheels in are a good way to mess up alignment, those "brushless" brushes are *#*#*#*# on paint, and that hox wax isn't a great idea either.
Richard

[dolebludger]

marlinspike:

I too would be leary of use of leafblowers for car drying --- except for the fact that when I called Griot's Garage to ask about a product for cold weather (above freezing) washing, they recommended leaf blower drying ---- along with their boar's hair brush on a pole. And Griot's takes detailing very seriously.

I think we can all agree that commercial car washes should be avoided for a long list of reasons.

On this board, I've read opinions that a wide variety of drying tools cause scratching --- water blades, towels, and leaf blowers to name some. For what it's worth, here's a theory. Just rinsing with a garden hose and nozzle after washing may not remove all the "grit" on the paint. If so, ANY drying tool or method will scratch. With this particular boar's head brush, water flows to the bristles, so you scrub while you rinse. I know that rinsing with the brush seemed to leave my cars cleaner (if just left to air dry) than simply rinsing with a hose.

Hope this helps,
Richard:) :) :)

[marlinspike]

Out of curiousity, why does anything need to be done differently in cold weather?
Richard

[dolebludger]

marlinspike:

Things need to be done differently in cold weather, not for the benefit of the car but for the benefit of the owner. In areas like mine when the best time to wash a car in a month may be a day with temps in the upper 30's, I (for one) don't want to be working with a bunch of wet micro fibers, towels, or synthetic chamois for drying --- nor a wolly mit for washing. Even if your garage stays fairly warm (as mine does) you can't wash there unless you have a heck of a sloping floor or a floor drain (which mine does not).

So that is the reason behind the search for "touchless" car washing and drying. Bottom line, it does me little good to have the sharpest, cleanest car around if I'm too sick to drive it.

Thanks,
Richard

:) :) :)

[marlinspike]

Ah, I see. I've always found that if I dress warmly and wear fairly thick neoprene lab gloves (doesn't have to be neoprene, but normally neoprene is much thicker than latex), I'm ok in the MD winters. Just wanted to make sure I'm not, I dunno, like micro-freezing the paint or something.
Richard

[D.L. SWINFORD]

tiggerfink;
Have you made your choice on waxes?
I gave you a list from The Guru Reports.
I don't know where the forum got off track but I hope you made your choice.
For me it's whatever carwash, wheel and tire cleaners that are on sale followed by Meguires #26.
Until Then JOY
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Your Modertor, Chairman of The Board, Don:p :p :p

'85 300DT 284kMiles Donka II

[marlinspike]

You sent him the guru reports thing? You do realize that a lot of people disagree with a lot of what that said, right? I'd say at least 50% of it is utter junk.
Richard

[D.L. SWINFORD]

marlinspike Richard;
Of the few remarks you have made as a new member; you have yet to reply in a positive note. At the rate you're going you may have few responses to your replies.
So what's new, Pure Junk?
Fifty percent disagree?
How about fifty percent agree!
Many ball players would gladly take .500 batting average.
Just food for thought from your Moderator.
Until Then JOY

Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Your Moderator, Chairman of The Board,Don :p :p :p

'85 300DT 284Kmiles Donka II

[marlinspike]

marlinspike Richard;
Of the few remarks you have made as a new member; you have yet to reply in a positive note. At the rate you're going you may have few responses to your replies.
So what's new, Pure Junk?
Fifty percent disagree?
How about fifty percent agree!
Many ball players would gladly take .500 batting average.
Just food for thought from your Moderator.
Until Then JOY

Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Your Moderator, Chairman of The Board,Don :p :p :p

'85 300DT 284Kmiles Donka II

Hmm..you make a good point about none of my posts being positive. I hadn't noticed that. Though, to be fair, most of them were neutral..I did make one positive (said what waxes and stuff I do like, isn't that a positive?). Oh, and while I'm typing, I might as well ask, what's Until Then JOY mean? Can you honestly tell me you actually like Stoner InvisibleGlass (the choice of Gurureports...just one example but I think it makes my point best)?
Richard

[dolebludger]

triggerfink (Fred):

You inquired about how to get a wax job that will last a year. I think I have an answer, though you may not like some of the side effects.

Our section's tech advisor (and now president) gives tech talks at meetings and demonstrations at other times. Over a year ago, he gave a demonstration about how to do a wax job right. He used a Meguair's four step procedure starting with cleaner, then a polish, then a glaze, and then a wax. For the demonstration, he used one of our member's older SLs whose finish need a little "love." Last Saturday, I saw the car he used in this demonstration, and it looked freshly waxed over a year later!

The side effects? It took three guys 3 1/2 hours to do this procedure! Not quick or easy by any means, but surely effective, especially on a car in need of a REAL cleaning and waxing.

So you can get a wax job that lasts a year, and more. But you have to pay the price in sore muscles.

Hope this helps,
Richard :) :) :)

[A Perfect Shine]

I have not heard it mentioned but my expirence has been that klasse All in One (AIO) and Sealant glaze (SG) are going to be the most durable products you can find. If you put one coat of AIO and several coats of SG I have heard that it will last for up to a year. If you want some very good information about detailing feel free to ask me or go over to www.autopia.org There are a lot of very helpful people over there and there is also a free ebook with a ton of information.

[marlinspike]

I called Meguiar's today to ask about layering the wax. He told me it is an urban legend. The chemist at Meguiar's said layering will not help the wax last longer.

If I want my wax to last longer, Meguiar's said to use the Meguiar's NXT Generation® Tech Wax.

It depends. My car's paint was severely dry. I did multiple coats of P21S gloss enhancing cleanser (2 coats on flat surfaces 1 on the sides) and multiple coats of P21S wax (3 coats on flat surfaces 1 on sides...the sides were pretty much like new so I didn't need to do multiple coats there) and it brought it back, and with each coat I could see the shine getting deeper and deeper. However, if your paint isn't severely dry, multiple coats in one day will do nothing for you. Do a coat a week and it will build up (which can be a bad thing if you do too much) as long as you don't use much soap when washing.
Richard

[tiggerfink]

It depends. My car's paint was severely dry. I did multiple coats of P21S gloss enhancing cleanser (2 coats on flat surfaces 1 on the sides) and multiple coats of P21S wax (3 coats on flat surfaces 1 on sides...the sides were pretty much like new so I didn't need to do multiple coats there) and it brought it back, and with each coat I could see the shine getting deeper and deeper. However, if your paint isn't severely dry, multiple coats in one day will do nothing for you. Do a coat a week and it will build up (which can be a bad thing if you do too much) as long as you don't use much soap when washing.
Richard

It depends on the chemicals in the wax. Some waxes you can layer and some you cannot. For example Meguair's Gold Class Liquid Clear Coat Wax is a cleaner/polishing wax and layers does nothing with this wax.

[dolebludger]

I depends on WHY you are applying two coats . If you are doing so with the same product just to get more coverage, it may not be worth it to you. But I've found that some products (like Meguiar's #26) are good at hiding microscopic scratches but don't necessarily give the brightest shine on all colors. On the other hand, products like Ultra Gloss and NXT give a very brilliant shine, but aren't the best at concealing microscopic scratches. I get a super liik by using #26 first, and following that with Ultra Gloss. I can't swear as to how long it lasts, but it does look good.

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

dolebludger, Richard;
If two of anything is better than one the OK.
One shot of ole 26 for me.

Happy Trails Beep Beep from the Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don :p :p :p

Until Then JOY

Chairman of the Board
Your Moderator
'85 300dt 288K miles Donka II (CHARACTER)
'87 300e 2xx K miles Donka I (put out to pasture)

[dolebludger]

D.L:

Yes, I am sort of having to withdraw some of my praise for "nano" products like Ultra Gloss, NXT, and the like. Yes, the shine is bright and hard, but (as I've said recently) the shine is so hard that the coating the product itself leaves is succeptible to "micro scratching." No. 26 does contain some synthetics, but not enough (or not the kind) that leaves the coating so hard that it is "scratchable." And the No. 26 removed these "micro scratches" just fine, and an even brighter shine could then be obtained by a VERY THIN COAT of pure Carnauba wax. And, in the end, it takes no more time. This forum is very educational!

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[Allen]

Hi Thomas,
Nice meeting you at Star Tech! Did you get any Zymol? I went wild after the detailing clinic and got a lot of neat stuff. I can't wait to try it out.

[WhyNot]

Zaino...simply the best product I've ever used and I've used almost everything in my years of caring for my cars. I became aware of Zaino through my Corvette buddies about 5 years ago. If you haven't used it you're not qualified to comment on it. I use it on my MB, my Corvette, my Jetta and my Camry. Simply the longest lasting most durable proiduct with unbelievable gloss and absolutly no yellowing.

I'll stop now because I don't want to appear as an advertiser for this stuff...but it is good!

[dolebludger]

Whynot:

My other friends over on the Honda S 2000 board say Zaino gives a very glossy shine ---- that is very shot lived. I don't personally know, but let us have you rcomments on this.

Thanks,
Richard :confused:

[WhyNot]

Richard, I have nothing to gain by promoting the Zaino product. As I said, I've used almost everything and still feel Zaino is the best by far. Durability is excellent, so I don't know what these people at the other site are talking about. Funny thing about car care products, it becomes almost a religious war with people arguing over thier favorite wax. I'm not impressed with advertising I'm impressed with performance.. Zaino performs! Only thing I can say is "try it you'll like it". Seriously, I suggest you give it a go, use it as directed, then you'll be the best judge. Any questions and I'll do my best to answer.

[dolebludger]

WhyNot:

Whoa! I was merely asking a question, not arguing. You are right. There are so many firmly-held opinions about car wax. I got to talk with some professional Mercedes detailers last weekend, who were firmly of the opinion that only yellow-colored wax was worth using! I think there are as many opinions as there are enthusiasts! And there is also the factor (or so I've been told) that German paint is different than Japanese paint, which is different than American paint --- and so on. If this is true, a product that works very well on a German car could have problems on a Japanese car.

Now, a few questions about Zaino. I haven't seen it on the shelves at local auto parts stores. Where do I get it? Are any special application methods required? Is it necessary to "strip" all old wax off the car before using Zaino?

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[WhyNot]

Richard,

Sorry if I sounded a bit heavy, not my meaning at all. Regarding your paint difference question among manufactures, I have examples of Japaneses(Camry), American(Corvette) and German(E Class and Jetta) cars. I use Zaino on all of them. I see no difference in the performance of the product on any of the, works same way, looks and wares the same. Very pleased.

Correct, the product isn't sold at retail stores, its been available thru some distributors Sal Zaino annointed. Best advice I can give is vist the web site:
www.zainostore.com.

The web site explains allot about the use of the product. Yes, the vehicle must be prepared(even a brand new one) before applying the initial coat. Its not that big a deal to prepare. Basically you have to wash the vehicle with Dawn dishwashing detergent, maybe twice. Best appraoch is to then Clay-Bar the vehicle. Next step is to thoroughly wash the vehicle with the Zaino car wash(a great product itself). Now you're ready to apply the product. Its extrememly easy to apply and even easier to remove. No dusting, no residue, nothing, Just amazing gloss. More coats you apply the deeper the gloss...just gets better and better.

Visit the site...thats the bets way to learn more. Like I said, I'm not an agent for this stuff, just a very pleased customer.

Of course any questions I will gladly try to answer

Regards Bob.

[dolebludger]

Thanks!

I'll check it out.

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[Arn560]

Tiggerfink, No wax lasts a year; unless the car is kept covered in a garage & never driven. Evenif you washed it weekly & didn't drive the oxidation alone will cause the layer of wax to breakdown.

[tiggerfink]

According to my Wax report in 2003, Zanio was in first place. But there are a lot of new waxes on the market now. Some of my friends hate Zanio and some swear by Zanio. So I am beginning to think all high in wax is a matter of taste like 31 flavors of ice cream. I noticed that some waxes work better in different types of environments and climates. Not all waxes produce the same results, and I noticed that some owners prefer certain wax because of a particular result they are looking for.

I am using Optimum wax and it does last about 5 months. I noticed that the outside of my car is very slippery. I laid a micro fiber towel on my hood near the windshield and it slip off to my bumper. I guess that is good, because a stone would hit my car and slip off.

[WhyNot]

Just as a point of correction...Zaino is not a wax.

[dolebludger]

WhyNot:

You are correct, sir! And for the novice, this whole thing is as confusing as heck! It seems that we actually have categories of this stuff we shine our cars with; some being compatible and some not.

Starting with the most primative, we have the "pure carnauba" waxes. These contain some petroleum distilates, but no abrasives. (Example -- Mothers pure Carnauba Wax)

Then, we have some products which are MAINLY carnauba wax, but also contain some polymers. (Some may contain some mild abrasives also) Examples include Meguair's No. 26.

Then, we have products with a higher content of polymers. (These might include Turtle Wax Ultra Gloss, Eagle One Nano, and Meguair's NXT) Apparently, these are still compatabile with any other wax or polish.

Then, we have Zaino and a few others that are pure polymer, and are not compatible with the products above. To apply these, one must strip all residual products, get down to clear coat, and start from there.

Then (to complicate things) we've got stuff like PS 21 that are said to be a "pure wax" product BUT not compatible with other wax-containing products described above. To properly use the "PS 21 system", one must first strip all wax and polish (even Zaino) from the car, and apply from clear coat.

This is all enough to drive a man to drink, as if other parts of Mercedes ownership did not! And I suspect there is no right or wrong here. Depends on climate and the way we keep our cars (garaged, car-ported, or outside). Here is an example. Our climate is both hot and cold, and always dusty --- and we tend to drive rather fast on the highway here. Our car is garaged when not in use. So, we don't want the wax/polish to be too soft and sticky (as to attract dust) nor to hard (as some mainly polymers are) so as to get micro-scratches in the polish from driving fast through dusty conditions. If you subtract the "dust factor" we could use the more pure wax formulas (more sticky.) But the same dust factor messes things up if we use pure polymers (more prone to micro-scratching.) So, we need to do something in between. If we were rid of the heat and constant dust, a pure wax might be best. And if we were rid of the constant dust to drive through, a pure polymer might be best.

Oh, well, order yourself a drink and charge it to my tab!

Thanks,
Richard :D

[Ferdman]

Thomas, Zaino may result in a slippery surface for your microfiber towel, but I suspect that stone chips will penetrate the thin coating. Sorry to burst your bubble, or Zaino magic coating.

[dolebludger]

Well, this is a new one on me! I was unaware that any form of car polish, wax, or what have you actually protected the front from stone chips. In fact, I have never seen any such product even make this claim. Are there polishes or waxes that provide protection from stone chips?

Thanks,
Richard :confused:

[bill streep]

Richard,

Many years ago, when I had my new-to-me (my first car) 1966 250S, I would wax it WEEKLY with Turtle Wax. One day we were sitting near the tennis courts when a squall came through. I watched an umbrella - you know the kind, that go over the patio tables, with the metal tube - cartwheel towards my car. With the metal tube pointed ahead, the umbrella and metal tube ran directly up my hood, with the tube scraping along the hood. I pulled out my can of Turtle Was, and evened out the wax that had been scraped up! NO DAMAGE at all.

[Ferdman]

Bill, you should have contacted Turtle Wax and had them incorporate your umbrella experience into a TV commercial. Do you always have the luck of the Irish?

[tiggerfink]

Thomas, Zaino may result in a slippery surface for your microfiber towel, but I suspect that stone chips will penetrate the thin coating. Sorry to burst your bubble, or Zaino magic coating.

I never stated that Zaino would protect my car from stone chips. But it does make sense that you would have less stone chip damage, because synthetics waxes has changed the surface tension to have a less coefficient of drag.

However, I did say the following:


I am using Optimum wax and it does last about 5 months. I noticed that the outside of my car is very slippery. I laid a micro fiber towel on my hood near the windshield and it slip off to my bumper. I guess that is good, because a stone would hit my car and slip off.

[tiggerfink]

Just as a point of correction...Zaino is not a wax.

Mequairs states that most polishes out there are cleaners because they have abrasions. We can go all day long with the correct marketing terms of cleaners, polishes, and waxes and never get anywhere.

My definition of a wax is a coating that protects your paint from the elements like sun and rain. If Zanio protects your paint from the sun, and other elements then it is a wax in my book. As technology invents and improves different products, the cleaners, polishes, and waxes of the future will be completely different chemically.

[dolebludger]

Yes, we have numerous climate differences, car use differences, and car storage differences. There just can't be one right answer. But this thread does contain a bunch of good suggestions for us to try to see what is right for us. Some basic rules:

Nothing lasts forever.

The harder the "finish" the more dust free it will be, but the more succeptabile to scratches it will be.

Some of these polishes that are either pure polymer or pure wax require a striping down to clear coat to use, and are not compatable with after-use of other products.

I'll venture out and make a statement or so here. First, garage your car as much as possible --- 24/7 if you can. Use a finisnhing product you can renew by buffing with some sort of detailing solution. Wash with a boars hair brush and as little soap as possible. Use your favorite drying tools to dry, but NOT a natural chamois as it will strip any polish ---- unless you wish to strip polish, of course. Buff your car after washing (and/or polishing) with a soft microfiber or 100% cotton cloth, and I don't think there is much of a difference in these. If your car is down to clear coat (either new or after stripping), even if you are a pure carnauba wax fan, use a product with some polymers as a sealer before the pure wax. Make sure you use a product for a sealer that is compatable with the wax. If you use totally a product like Zaino or Liquid Glass and it works for you, keep up the good work. If you like to apply some pure carnauba once in a while and buff it out and it works for you, keep up the good work.

Let's just keep them shiney, and kep the shiney side up!

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Before I give my opinion as being a Moderater; I want to thank all of you who have sent your love and help during my illness and abcense as your Moderater.

Old stick in the Mud me; I still stick with Mequiar's Yellow Liquid 26.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don :p :p :p

[Allen]

What do you all think about Zymoil?

[dolebludger]

I'd like to hear some opinions on Zymol as well. Also opinions on Liquid Glass.
I've never personally used Zymol because (from what I've read) it is incompatable with other products, so you have to strip all wax off before using it, and can't apply anything else over it. So it sounded like a bit too much work. (Note: "dolebludger" is Australian slang for one who does not like to work!)

I saw something amazing concerning Liquid Glass. A guy in our section has an older black SL, and several months ago he showed us a very swiril-scratched and bird dropping etched hood and asked what he should do. The consensus was that he was in for a paint job. Next month, he showed up at the section meeting with a very nice shine on his car, and the hood was about as free of blemish as one could find on a car that age. He did it with Liquid Glass! So I'd like to hear more about it as well. With something that could perform that miracle, I hope there are no "down sides."

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[Allen]

I attended Larry Emmons seminar at Star Tech, he is a Zymol distributor. I was totally impressed with seeing the results so I bought the complete kit from him. After a good wash,
I started off with the "clay" process,(this is the first time I have ever used clay, its so easy and yeilds a truly smooth surface) then applied and removed the HD Cleanse, then wax. Yes, it is labor intensive, but yeilds extraordinary results. As you do not let this product dry, it is truly a "wax on, wax off" process.
I am curious to see what others think about this stuff, I like it.

[marlinspike]

I saw something amazing concerning Liquid Glass. A guy in our section has an older black SL, and several months ago he showed us a very swiril-scratched and bird dropping etched hood and asked what he should do. The consensus was that he was in for a paint job. Next month, he showed up at the section meeting with a very nice shine on his car, and the hood was about as free of blemish as one could find on a car that age. He did it with Liquid Glass! So I'd like to hear more about it as well. With something that could perform that miracle, I hope there are no "down sides."

If it's taking swirl marks away it's abrasive. If it's taking very strong swirl marks and harsh etching away, then it's very abrasive. The is only one rule: there's no such thing as a free lunch. Since you aren't adding new paint, the only way to make it smooth is to take away the surround paint and to blend things together a bit. Do you want to do that every time you wax your car? No. Would you want that sometimes? Yes. That's why there is rubbing compound, ultra-fine cut compound, polish, glaze, and wax, and why no one product does it all.

[dolebludger]

Marlinspike:

I am generally in agreement with your statements, and really felt our section member needed a repaint --- at least on his hood. But, darn, the thing still looks good months later. And while I wouldn't believe it myself if I saw it posted on this board, I've seen the car, and how the Liquid Glass "fix" worked and is still working! And I think it is too good to be true also, but again, I've seen in over a few months.

Thanks,
Richard :confused:

[sl3204me]

The long lasting shine occurs in proportion to the amount and type of Brazilian carnauba wax in the product.Most manufacturers don't list the type and percentage of carnauba wax in their products.The more expensive waxes ($100)
have the best quality Brazilian carnauba wax and usually in a 40% or higher percentage.So it really depends on how much money you want to spend and how much labor you want to expend.I think Mother's does list the percentage and type of carnauba wax in their product and I have heard many good things about their products.I have used meguires gold wax and their detail spray wax and have been happy with the results.If you really want to see your MB sparkle,take it to the dealer when they have a detailing special and have them detail your car.It will look like it was driven off of the showroom floor.

[marlinspike]

From what I've picked up from hanging with dealer detail guys, their stuff does make the car look great at the moment, but is toture on the clear coat.
Richard

[dolebludger]

I couldn't find a statement of carnauba content on my can of "Mother's Pure Carnauba Paste Wax." Nonetheless, it does tend to give a long-lasting shine --- and for about $10 per can.

I talked with the detailing guys at our local MB dealer a couple of months ago. They said they used abrasives, cleaners, claybar, sealers, and glazes as and when needed. But as to the final wax coat, they said "just use any product that is yellow in color!" They said that this indicated a respectable carnauba content.

It should be noted that Meguair's No. 26 and Mother's are both yellow.

Thanks,
Richard

[Alex]

So, boys and girls, after six pages of interesting posts, is there consensus as to the best wax to use on our cars, or do we just continue to use what falls into our hands and think it best?

[dolebludger]

Well, this has been a very educational thread, that has caused me to try new things and develop new personal preferences. But I think the anwser to the original question of "is there a wax that lasts a year?" has come out as pretty well "no".

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[dolebludger]

Oh, yeah, one more thing. For Fathers' Day, I had my adult kids order me a bunch of stuff I needed from Griot's Garage. (I don't wear ties anymore!) With it came a free 8 oz. bottle of "Speed Shine" ---- Griot's brand of detailing spray. Tried it after washing a car with wax still good on it. It was VERY quick to use, as it didn't leave the streaks some detailing sprays do that have to be rubbed off. It renewed the shine and added a bit of clarity, so one doesn't see any "hazy" areas when looking at a hood or trunk from an angle in bright light. Good stuff!

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[trippir]

I just read all of these posts and I can't believe that the endorsement to Zaino products was just barely mentioned. I've been using Zaino for about 3 years now
and I will never use a carnuba wax again. It is the easiest to put on, and even easier to take off. The carnubas have oils in their composition, which due to the harsh elements break down much too soon. Car paint is a synthetic composition
and Zaino polish is a synthetic composition.Together they go hand in hand and the proof is in the results you get from using Zaino. If your car is a daily driver
then you should wax your car at least twice a year. Personally, I wax my car
3 to 4 times a year. I drive a black 1993 300ce that looks like I just came out of the showroom IN 1993. Here's the kicker !! most cars have alot of surface contaminants in the paint. Using a synthetic or carnuba wax won't take these contaminants out. It's a must to use a clay bar product before any polish product.
If you run your hand on the paint and feel anthing but a showroom finish then you should use a clay bar product first. GURU magzine rates all carnubas &
synthetics on the market today. Zaino's synthetic show car polish has taken 1st place for the past few years. We drive the best cars, why shouldn't we use the best ploish. If this sounds like an endorsement, it is. I drive one of the finest cars
produced and I know I'm using the best car polish, without a doubt !!

Rick

[WhyNot]

Look again...my posts were quite clear about Zaino. I've been using it for 5+ years on all my cars, nothing compares. It's just not worth getting into a p---'g contest with people that swear by their favorite product. I feel all you can do is pass on one's experience about something, rest is up to them to benefit from the information.

[marlinspike]

Why is everybody so in love with clay? Get yourself a bottle of P21S gloss-enhancing paintwork cleanser, and those same contaminents you feel will go away 99% of the time, and you won't take a layer of clear-coat off in the process. I think it says something when the paint shop says not to wax for 30 days, and if you're one of those people who uses clay, don't use clay for the first 2 years or so.
Richard

[trippir]

Look again...my posts were quite clear about Zaino. I've been using it for 5+ years on all my cars, nothing compares. It's just not worth getting into a p---'g contest with people that swear by their favorite product. I feel all you can do is pass on one's experience about something, rest is up to them to benefit from the information.

Bill,

I viewed mostly Mothers & Meguiars postings. I guess my post was just an impulse I got from being estatic from Zaino's.

Rick

[dolebludger]

Well, let me ask a non-argumentative question about Zaino. You see, I've never tried it, but I just might when cooler temperatures this fall make removal of all my old wax a more pleasant task.

Here's my situation. A year or so ago, I really liked stuff like NXT, Ultra Gloss, and Nano Wax. Now this stuff is not exactly like Zaino, of course, but it does contain a high ploymer content. And as I understand it Zaino is all polymer. Well, the stuff I used looked great at first, but seemed to get little micro scratches in the finish. Upon examination and some work, I found these were in the polish (or wax or whatever we want to call it) and not in the clearcoat or paint. So I reverted to using the three products I listed as a "glaze" only, and covering it with a light coat of "pure" carnauba. That fixed my problem. But I understand that Zaino can't be used with carnauba either under or over it.

So my question is, does Zaino tend to get those little micro scratches in the Zaino finish, or is it pretty resistant to these? Also, every time I wash, I like to wipe the car down with a detailing spray. Can I do that with a Zaino protected car?

Thanks,
Richard

[trippir]

Richard,

You can call Zaino at 732-833-8800


Rick

[GrayStar]

Jim, while we are talking about wax and you were a flyer, I have a question for you. A few years ago...actually a lot of years ago, there was a product for aircraft called SLIPSTREAM. It stated that it would increase air speed by 10%. I purchased it for my own car and found it not only kept a shine on my car for weeks, but when it rained, it washed off the dirt since nothing stuck to the finish. All I had to do after a rain was to wipe the rocker panels off with a cloth. Since then I was unable to find this jem. It came in a small can about the size of a large can of shoe polish. If you know of this product, please advise me of its location. There is nothing like putting aircraft polish on a car. I wonder how if it would increase the speed over ground? Just kidding!

[Al Cooper]

Gray Star & others; I've seen references to Marine & aircraft polishes/waxes in this forum & offer the following. I had sailboats for 30+ years & used COLLINITES # 870 Fleetwax which was developed for aircraft & marine uses on my boats. One was painted with AWLGRIP & one was just plain fiberglass. It kept my boats hull clean & shiney in the salt water in the Boston area for 5 months+ every year. :rolleyes:

I also use it on my 240D which is outside all the time under a cover & it keeps it in pretty good shape also IMHO. Manfried the 240 D was repainted about 1990 or so in Florida & still shines up well. Probably since Collinate is an aircraft polish its the reason I get 34 MPG & go like a jet aircraft in it at 65-70MPH when I want to. :D

My 88 560SL still has the dealer polish on it so am not sure what I'll use on it but am leaning to Meguiars gold class as i have a can of it ;)

Al in Red sox Nation w/Manfried the silvr bulit 240D in cool slo moshun & Marlene the white flash 560SL ready to go :cool:

[marlinspike]

With regards to the Meguiar's. Do you really want to use a product made by a company that knowingly sells a product that damages wheels (in addition the experiences of board members, this was documented in a class action law suit a few years ago - or were there 2 suits? I forget)?
Richard

[Al Cooper]

Marlinspike; Got your email on meguiares. I wasn't going to use it on my wheels after hearing all the bad stuff about it & frankly I don't think the stuff does as good a job as my turtle wax so maybe i'll just stick with the Turtle i've used for 40 years & pass on their wax. :rolleyes:

I did win a package of Meguaires glass cleaner, their interior protector, speed detailer & their spray wax at our MB Minuteman fall car show last Sunday in Brookline MA. I tried the interior protectant & the glass cleaner mon & the were good I thought but haven't tried the speed detailer or spray wax & probably won't based on all the negative comments on their products that I've heard in this & other forums :eek:

I also placed 1st in the daily driver class with our new 560SL so dont need all the stuff anyway :D

Al in Red Sox Nationw/Manfried the silvr bulit 240D & Marlene the white flash 560SL, both ready to go again :)

[marlinspike]

Hehe now you're going to get me started on turtle wax. It keeps a car looking nice, but I don't know for how long...too many cleaners if you ask me. I used it on a 11 year old car that had been waxed once in it's like about 8 years earlier. The car was not clear coated. The car looked pretty good when finished...but I had about 8 towels covered in metallic green when I was done.

[atclew]

If I want my wax to last longer, Meguiar's said to use the Meguiar's NXT Generation® Tech Wax.


I've been using Meguiars' NXT liquid wax since it first came out with spectacular results. I've tried Zaino, Zymol, Turtle Wax. I found that for the dollar and the quality, it's a good wax. I'm not saying that Zaino or Zymol produces an inferior product, just a more expensive one. A buddy of mine uses Zaino for his Z06 and gets fantastic results!

Here's a few links to the reflections I achieved with NXT.

My recently traded in C320 (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/855000-855999/855009_20_full.jpg)

Great reflection off the hood (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/855000-855999/855009_21_full.jpg)

Thanks,

Lew

[D.L. SWINFORD]

Reflection is great.
As your moderator I can only comment on things I observe and can offer help; but in your case NO HELP NEEDED.
It's apparent that you already realize that the best appearance is to not use an abrasive cleaner once you have finished getting the paint near perfect.
Your choice of wax is good.
My '85 w123 with his original paint, "Smke Silver Metallic Clearcoat has reflectivaty and depth as does your new TOY.
I've used Mac's # 26 High Tech Yellow all his life. If I find he needs cleaning I use Auto Putty. Hard work but oh so worth the effort.
My hat's off to you for the pride you are taking in maintaining you Benz and not being influenced by using the high priced spread.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don :p :p :p

[marlinspike]

Gray Star & others; I've seen references to Marine & aircraft polishes/waxes in this forum & offer the following. I had sailboats for 30+ years & used COLLINITES # 870 Fleetwax which was developed for aircraft & marine uses on my boats. One was painted with AWLGRIP & one was just plain fiberglass. It kept my boats hull clean & shiney in the salt water in the Boston area for 5 months+ every year. :rolleyes:


If anybody is looking for the collinite wax which can be hard to find, their automotive wax is carried by www.dccarcare.com and their other waxes can be found by contacting them directly at Collinite Corp.
www.collinite.com
315-732-2282
Richard

[D.L. SWINFORD]

marlinspike,
not from the Blue Jacket manual;
But all info you can provide the Detailing forum is well put.

Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on the Gulf Coast, Don :p :p :p

Until Then JOY

Your Moderater,Chairman of The Board 123 Character Club and All Around Know it All(Ha-Ha)

'85 300DT Donka II 290K miles, cruises 85+ mph(Joanie Driving)