Any opinion on Nu Finish?

[DUC916]

It is a polymer-type product and claimed to last really long period. Added bonus is that it is readily available and really cheap. Anyone has any opinion about this product? Since it is a synthetic chemical-type product, not a natural wax type, I am concerned about the permanent ill-effect of the silicone-type polsh (which was mentioned frequently on this board in the past). Will it do any harm to MB's finish?

[marlinspike]

My dad bought a bottle before I can remember, I might not even have been born yet. The fact that the bottle is still about 95% full I think suggests something about how good it is.

[bill streep]

I used one of those "as seen on TV" on my Nissan Truck about 8 years ago. Looked great for a couple of months - then it turned milky and I couldn't remove it. They had me take it to a detail shop, then ended up paying for a paint job - it was a Blue Coral product.

[DUC916]

This "Nu Finish" is in an orange bottle (like the color of road cones) and can be found in almost any autopart shops or retailers (e.g., Target or Wal-Mart). I have used it on many different cars in the past and I have been quite pleased. That was until I joined this club and read several advices (especially Tom Hansen's and Bill's). I think this product has been around in the market quite long time. If Nu Finish had any undesirable effects as the Blue Coral informercial product did, wouldn't you expect it to disappear from the marketplace by now? I asked on this forum if there are any other MB owners out there who have used it or have seen others use it .

[marlinspike]

If Nu Finish had any undesirable effects as the Blue Coral informercial product did, wouldn't you expect it to disappear from the marketplace by now?

Rocky Mountain Radar still claims to sell radar and laser scramblers, Armor-All is still on the shelves, and you can still order GS27 Scratch Remover. Heck, Zymol still has their name on that junk they have made for them by Turtle Wax that you can buy at autoparts stores and walmart and such. Anywho, I've heard from a person I trust on such topics (Larry at carcareonline.com) not to use polymer waxes on German paints.

[Chappy]

Anywho, I've heard from a person I trust on such topics (Larry at carcareonline.com) not to use polymer waxes on German paints.

About ten years ago, I used a polymer cleaner/wax (3M if I recall) on my 040 Black 300CE. It took me a whole day using Meguiars products to get the cloudiness out of the paint on the hood.

I will not go back.

My preference is to stick with quality car care products like Meguiars and Mothers. Take care of the paint and interior and it will last a long time.

Back to the topic....I think the Nu Finish TV ad shows a car going through 52 car washes and "the water still beads!!" Food for thought: Was the car a Mercedes-Benz?

[marlinspike]

About ten years ago, I used a polymer cleaner/wax (3M if I recall) on my 040 Black 300CE. It took me a whole day using Meguiars products to get the cloudiness out of the paint on the hood.


According to Larry you could have just used a cirtrus degreaser like the ones made by Wurth and P21S and it would have come right off.
Richard

[Chappy]

My detailing knowledge has come a long way in the past ten years :D

[D.L. SWINFORD]

A few years ago, Consumers Research or Reports. rated Nu-shine as the best product available for luster and endurance.
Times have changed.
Most of us use a wax product and choose the one that pleases us.
I use Meguiar's "Hi-Tech Yellow Wax 26". have for many years, and my '85 300DT still has original finish and looks as new.
About every 6 months or as req'd I do a clay rubbing.
You're going to get many replies as to the best.
There is a publication, which I have, "The Gurro Reports" and it tells it like it is.
Any ole WAX in a storm, try what you feel comfortable with.
Happy Trails Beep Beep from The Spiderman on The Gulf Coast, Don :p :p :p

Until Then, JOY

Chairman of the Board
Your Moderator
'85300DT 288K miles, Donka II
'87300E 279K miles, Donka I (put out to pasture)

[dolebludger]

I don't know about Nu Finish, but some early car "waxes" using synthetic componets used acrylic compounds. You know, like the mop-on stuff that is used on residential vinyl flooring. And all to the same result. When any acrylic polish is subjected to much moisture, it clouds up.

Newer products containing synthetic compounds (like Ultra Gloss, Nano Wax and NXT Tech Wax) contain no acrylics, and don't cause "clouding." I was at first very much for these products, as they gave a very hard and bright shine. However, their very "hardness" is a disadvantage. They seem to be subject to microscopic scratching --- not in the clearcoat but in the "wax."

So, we all return once again to products that are PRIMARILY carnauba wax. I say "primarily" because Meguiar's No. 26 also contains "polymers, resins, and silicones", according to the label. But apparently it does not contain these things in as high a quantity as the other products mentioned above, as No. 26 "behaves" more like pure carnauba wax.

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

[Chappy]

I don't know about Nu Finish, but some early car "waxes" using synthetic componets used acrylic compounds. You know, like the mop-on stuff that is used on residential vinyl flooring. And all to the same result. When any acrylic polish is subjected to much moisture, it clouds up.

Newer products containing synthetic compounds (like Ultra Gloss, Nano Wax and NXT Tech Wax) contain no acrylics, and don't cause "clouding." I was at first very much for these products, as they gave a very hard and bright shine. However, their very "hardness" is a disadvantage. They seem to be subject to microscopic scratching --- not in the clearcoat but in the "wax."

So, we all return once again to products that are PRIMARILY carnauba wax. I say "primarily" because Meguiar's No. 26 also contains "polymers, resins, and silicones", according to the label. But apparently it does not contain these things in as high a quantity as the other products mentioned above, as No. 26 "behaves" more like pure carnauba wax.

Thanks,
Richard :) :) :)

Great assessment! FWIW, you have indicated the reason why I don't use #26 for the final step. If necessary, I use the glazes and swirl remover from Meguiar's, but the final step for me is using Mother's pure carnuba in cake form. The fact that it smells great is a bonus.

After I apply and remove the wax by hand, I follow up buffing to a deep shine using an orbital buffer and a clean terry cloth bonnet.

[dolebludger]

Chappy:

Thanks! I learned something here! I know my wife has told me not to buy any more car wax until I use up what I have bought --- and that keeps me from ordering stuff as she might get the delivery --- but it does not keep me from buying stuff at a local parts store and hiding it! So I went to a auto store today (on the pretext of going to a strip bar) and bought some Mothers Pure Carnuba in the cake form. I tried it on the trunk lid of the Bordeau C 320, and it gave me all the sufrace shine I liked in the "nano" products, plus the depth I liked with the more pure wax products. Then I tried it on the bright red S 2000, and it did the same. Hey, I like this product.

Then I read the instructions, and saw that it was "step three" of a three-part process. A cleaner, a glaze, and then this wax. Well, my cars have been waxed (or glazed or cleaned-- I don't know) since they were new. So I ask, under these circumstances, is there any need to go all the way back to a cleaner? (BTW, the last thing that has been applied to them is No. 26.) Is it necessary to apply anything else before applying Mothers Pure Carnuba Wax, under these circumstances?

Thanks,
Richard Ruth :) :) :)

[marlinspike]

I don't see the need for a cleaner AND glaze. I use glaze every other wax (p21s paintwork cleanser) and polish instead of glaze (3m imperial hand glaze) if I have swirl marks.

[dolebludger]

Yeah, a "cleaner" would seem needed only if I were presented with a somewhat neglected car. Otherwise, a claybar might be needed to rid the car of environmental particles on the wax (or polish or glaze), but cleaning it down to the clearcoat would seem extreme, and possibly damaging.

My dad, who is 91, has a 93 Chrysler Concorde with 35K miles on it. It has been garaged most of its life, but it has been polished/glazed/waxed never! With that car, I would certainly begin with a cleaner. But on mine, which were bought new and waxed at the dealer, and waxed again after 10 miles when I got them home, and waxed regularly after that, I too see no need for a cleaner.

Thanks,
Richard Ruth :) :) :)

[marlinspike]

Yeah, a "cleaner" would seem needed only if I were presented with a somewhat neglected car. Otherwise, a claybar might be needed to rid the car of environmental particles on the wax (or polish or glaze), but cleaning it down to the clearcoat would seem extreme, and possibly damaging.

My dad, who is 91, has a 93 Chrysler Concorde with 35K miles on it. It has been garaged most of its life, but it has been polished/glazed/waxed never! With that car, I would certainly begin with a cleaner. But on mine, which were bought new and waxed at the dealer, and waxed again after 10 miles when I got them home, and waxed regularly after that, I too see no need for a cleaner.

Thanks,
Richard Ruth :) :) :)

Aren't you supposed to not wax cars for 2 months after buying them? Or have they solved that problem now?

[dolebludger]

Well, the last time I heard this was when I got my '64 GTO --- new! Hows' about that for age? When I got my '01 Honda S 2000 and when I got my '04 C 320, the dealer waxed the cars before I took delivery. I saw it both times. And then when I got home, I did it again, with the products I liked at the time (which is a constantly changing thing).

The closest bit of advice I have received to your comment was when my S 2000 rear bumper was messed up in a parking lot. It's skin had to be replaced and painted. The shop told my not to wax it for a couple of months. I asked if this would apply to painting on the body, and I was told "no." They said this only applied to bumpers, where they had to apply "flex" to the paint to make it "move" with the the bumper skin flexibility.

And, in response to this question, I consulted my MB owners' manual, which is kind of like reading the Bible word for word! I mean, have we got a big owners' manual, or what! No mention of delaying waxing could be found.

Thanks,
Richard Ruth :confused:

[tiggerfink]

I think the time the cars get to us, the car has been painted for more than 3 months.

[John Fisher]

I bought a bottle of Nu-Finish a few years ago. Tried it......and took it right back for a refund. It's the only wax that I ever returned to the store.

[tiggerfink]

According to the guru report, Nu Finish made a C-. From my testing, I prefer Optimum Spray on Wax. The company is a Memphis company that is two years old. The Mercedes and BMW dealer sells it and use it for their detail work.

Take a look at my wax testing post to see the results. This wax may not give the greatest luster and shine, but it does last. The best part of the wax is that it takes 15 minutes to put on.

http://www.optimumcarcare.com/index2.html